to a household can be quite stressful, to all concerned.
Indeed, it can be easier to introduce a dog to a cat than a cat to a cat. This is because a cat won’t view a dog as competition for resources – it might have to get used to its excited behaviour and learn to stand up to it to avoid being chased, but this usually happens very quickly and much more easily than we imagine. The cat-cat thing is much more difficult.
It’s usually easier to introduce a new kitten than an adult cat – this tends to be less challenging for the resident cat. Kitten body language and movements are less threatening and they have yet to adopt the concept of territory and competing with others.
A little bit of extra effort at the beginning can make the difference between a good or bad relationship in the future.
Plan ahead
Your existing cat (or cats) will have established territory and the introduction of another, albeit a little kitten, is not necessarily going to be well received. It’s important to ensure that the resident cat is not given the impression that it is under siege. When choosing your new kitten, have your cat’s personality in mind. For example, don’t acquire a very confident and outgoing kitten if your existing cat is timid or shy.
Arrange to collect your kitten on a day when you know you will have plenty of time to devote to settling it in, for example, a couple of days over a weekend or during a time when you are not at work and the household is relatively peaceful. Some planning is necessary to prepare the home for the new arrival and the introduction process so, before the kitten arrives, purchase or hire a kitten pen (or large dog ‘crate’ of similar construction) and position it in a room that your existing cat doesn’t particularly favour, for example, a spare bedroom. A kitten pen is a large metal cage with a solid floor that is normally used for kittening queens or cats after surgery that need to be confined. It is quite large with plenty of room for a bed, toys, food, water and a litter tray. They are easily collapsible to enable the pen to be moved from room to room.
Think cat!
Domestic cats eat pet food on the floor from bowls
Think cat once your new kitten arrives and think scent first. Your home will have a scent ‘profile’ which is familiar and reassuring to your resident cat. It will consist of all those things that go on there, the dogs, the children, the hobby equipment, the cleaning materials, the food you like and so on, all mixed in with your cat’s own scent. All the corners of your furniture will have been wiped by your cat’s chin and face, the doorposts have been brushed by its coat and the carpet will often bear the marks of claw sharpening and the scent from its paws. Your home is well and truly possessed by your cat.
What you have to try to do is work in the scent of the new kitten so that it, too, is incorporated into the accepted household aroma. This comes down, initially, to you. You have to try to spread and mix the scents of the cats. You’re working with the invisible, but have faith that there’s actually something there! Stroking your cat and the kitten regularly and swapping bedding will enable the kitten’s smell to become familiar and incorporated into the communal, household scent.
The first meeting
The door to the kitten’s room should remain closed initially, allowing the kitten to exercise within that space when your other cat is not around. The kitten’s food, water, toys and bed can be positioned outside the pen but the litter tray should remain within it. When the initial contact between kitten and cat takes place it may be helpful to distract the kitten with food.
The door to the room can be opened while the kitten is eating in the cage (with the cage door shut). It may be helpful, to allow the kitten to feel secure, if there is a covered box within the cage so that the kitten can hide from any unwanted attention as your other cat explores. If you wish, a small bowl of your cat’s favourite food can be located a comfortable distance away to encourage eating in safety (bearing in mind that cats are solitary feeders) without being deterred by the sight of the kitten. Your cat should be allowed to explore the cage without intervention.
It is important to provide attention to the existing cat during this transitional period but not to exceed the amount normally accepted and enjoyed. Existing routines should be maintained to demonstrate that the kitten represents no loss of resources or enjoyment.
Once kitten and cat appear calm when in close proximity to each other (with the kitten inside and the resident cat outside the cage), the pen can be moved to other rooms (of increasing importance to the resident cat), leaving out those particularly favoured areas where the adult cat spends the majority of its time. Depending on progress, several weeks of this regime may be needed before opening the cage and letting the cats get to know each other, some introductions can take considerably less time and the kitten accepted fairly quickly. When the cage door is left open and the kitten is allowed to mix freely the contact between adult and kitten should still be closely supervised. It may be advisable to separate the kitten and adult cat when supervision is not possible, at least until their relationship is firmly established.
Both kitten and adult, in the long-term, should be provided with their own resources (bed, litter tray, food bowls, water bowls etc) positioned in separate locations and their own private areas where they can rest undisturbed by the other.
Having a cat can mean different things to different people. Some want a cat to cuddle and sit on their laps; others are happy to live with a very independent cat which spends most of its time outside and doesn’t want too much human interaction.
What is important is that you try to find a cat that will interact with you if you want it to. All cats are not the same and how each individual cat behaves with you can depend on its inherent personality and early experiences (or lack of experiences), which can make it fearful or confident with people and life in general.
The environment in which you keep a cat is also extremely significant – for example if it lives with many other cats which do not get on, then it will be stressed and will react differently than if it was on its own.
While there is no guaranteed way to choose the perfect cat for you and your lifestyle, understanding your expectations as well as what makes cats tick will help you to bring home a cat that should be able to cope with its new environment and be the pet that you want too.
To care for a cat you will need to:
Provide plenty of human companionship
Provide regular, suitable meals with a constant supply of fresh water
Provide a clean and comfortable bed
Provide the cat with outdoor access or be prepared to empty and clean a litter tray on a daily basis
Provide it with a stimulating and safe environment
Groom it regularly. Longhaired cats require daily grooming
Have it neutered between 4 and 6 months old
Vaccinate against the major feline diseases regularly
Worm regularly and provide treatment for fleas
Take the cat to the vet when it shows any sign of illness
Insure your cat or make sure you can afford the cost of any veterinary treatment it may need
How much care and attention does a cat need?
As pets go, cats are relatively low maintenance compared to dogs which need companionship, walking, training etc. However, like any pet, they do need care, and some cats need more care than others. Do you want to spend a lot of time with your cat, do you want it to be demanding, or do you have limited time? Cats can fit into busy, modern lifestyles more easily than dogs, as they are pretty independent, can be left alone much more easily and are more suitable for smaller flats or houses. Cats are often chosen by people who have busy and stressful lifestyles and who want some companionship when they go home to relax.
What do you want from your relationship with a cat? If you’re the kind of person who really needs to have a close relationship with your cat and to be able to handle it and have it interact with you, then you’ll be disappointed if you take on a nervous cat that hides every time you come into the room. You may want to think about one of the pedigree breeds which can be more interactive and perhaps more needy of human company than some moggies. This may however become a problem for the cat if you are out at work all day and only available to give attention on evenings or weekends.
Some cats need to know exactly what’s going to happen when, in order to feel relaxed. Such cats would be quite happy living with an old lady who rarely has visitors and leads a very quiet life, but would probably find it quite stressful living in a home full of kids and other animals with lots of visitors and activity. Other cats, however, might thrive on different interactions with lots of people and fit in perfectly well in a busy household.
If you’re not likely to have the time or inclination to groom a cat on a daily basis, don’t even think of getting a Persian or a cat with a long coat. In pedigree jargon, any cat with a longer coat, aside from a Persian, is called semi-longhaired because the coat is not as full as the Persian’s and does not have such a thick undercoat; however, it is still long and requires grooming. In addition, if you are extremely house-proud, you may not want lots of hair everywhere.
A shorthaired cat is a much easier option, as most cats are fanatical about their coats and keep them in immaculate condition. That’s not to say that they don’t leave hairs around – bear this in mind if you’re thinking of getting a white cat but have dark furniture, or vice versa. Likewise, a cat is quite likely to sharpen its claws indoors, often on the stair carpet, sometimes on the furniture or even on the wallpaper. Whether your cat does this can depend on the cat itself and also the environment you provide for it; however there are things you can do to try and deal with this, but it is best to acknowledge from the outset that your cat is an animal with free will and natural behaviour that may not suit someone who needs to have an immaculate house.
Can I keep a cat on vegetarian food?
Are you a vegetarian and want your cat to be one too? If you want a vegetarian pet that won’t challenge your beliefs, then it would be better to get a rabbit – a cat is a carnivore first and foremost, and looks and behaves as it does for just this reason. A cat is what is called an obligate carnivore – it has an absolute need for some of the nutrients found in meat and all of its senses of smell and taste are atuned to being a carnivore – it would be unfair and very dangerous to health to even attempt keeping it as a vegetarian.
Is there a type of cat which doesn’t hunt?
You may have a great aversion to your cat hunting outside. Perhaps you are a bird lover, or are simply unable to deal with small carcases on the floor. Hunting is normal behaviour for cats. Keeping a cat indoors may prevent it actually killing anything, but it will still need an outlet for this, its most instinctive behaviour, and not all cats will be happy with an indoor lifestyle. Likewise, if you’re simply getting a cat to keep vermin at bay, you won’t want to find yourself with one which isn’t especially interested in huntin’, shootin’ and fishin’ and prefers being a couch potato! Older cats are likely to hunt much less than younger ones and some cats don’t bother at all, but there is no easy way to know how a cat will behave.
Can I keep a cat indoors?
If you think about the lifestyle of a cat which has access outdoors you will realise that being outdoors brings a huge variety to its life and allows it to use all of its hunting behaviours if it wants to. Of course, there are risks outside for cats, but you need to balance these with the very positive aspects of physical and mental stimulation and an outlet for natural behaviour.
Can I have a cat with a baby or young children?
There is no reason not to have a cat or kitten if you have children. It is up to parents to teach their children from the very beginning how to approach, stroke and handle cats and to treat them kindly. Many children have fantastic relationships with their cats and learn about respecting other creatures and being gentle – it is done successfully all the time, but it is up to parents to lay down the rules. Perhaps taking on a new kitten when you have a new baby or a toddler might be a lot to handle at once, so ensuring you have time for all the parties is part of a successful relationship. Likewise, if you are pregnant there is no need to get rid of the cat. Simple and basic hygiene precautions and common sense management of the cat, while the baby is small, can ensure all cohabit happily and safely.
Should I get an adult cat or a kitten?
A kitten gives you the opportunity to take on an animal right from the beginning and treat it and care for it so that it gets the best start in life. You will also be able to get some idea of its character. However, kittens require a lot of attention and some forethought to prevent them from getting into trouble. If you leave them alone you have to make sure they will be safe while you are away. You may also have to organise neutering, initial vaccinations and so on, depending on where you get your kitten from.
While kittens have a huge ‘cute’ factor, it is worth remembering that they don’t stay kittens for very long – just six months out of a potential 14 years or more.
With adult cats, it is at least clear if they are long or short haired. You should be able to get a good idea of a cat’s personality, although if it is being kept in less than ideal circumstances and is stressed or frightened it may act very differently compared to when it is relaxed. A confident adult cat is likely to move in and settle down quite quickly; a nervous one may take more time. It will be much easier to leave an older cat alone in the knowledge that it is not going to get itself into trouble, and it will generally be much less hard work and worry than a kitten. An adult cat will probably already be neutered and vaccinated.
What sex of cat should I get?
The sex of a kitten doesn’t really matter, as long as you neuter your kitten before it reaches puberty (at about four months of age) when the influence of sex hormones kick in. Un-neutered cats may exhibit unwelcome reproductive behaviours. For example, un-neutered male cats will mark their territory with strong smelling urine while un-neutered female cats can come into season every two weeks if they do not become pregnant.
If you are getting just one cat or kitten, it doesn’t matter which sex you choose. Equally, if you want two kittens and you are getting two from the same litter, the sex of either cat is probably not important. However, if you have a resident cat and are getting just one kitten or another cat, it may be worth considering going for one of the opposite sex to try and remove some of the competition factor. A kitten may be a better option than another adult cat in such cases as the young cat’s immaturity seems to remove this competition factor – for a while anyway during which time you hope they will get to like each other! Neutering also removes the need for so much competition and makes the choice of sex much less important.
Should I choose a specific breed or moggie?
The majority of cats kept as pets are what we call moggies or domestic short or long haired cats – that is they are a random mixture of lots of different cats, we have often have little idea about their parentage (well the father anyway). This means we have no control over the colour, body shape, coat length or anything else that the kittens can inherit from their parents. So, for example, if your kitten is from a moggie mum but its father is unknown, it may develop a longer coat than you desire if the father was indeed longhaired.
There is more to choosing a pedigree cat than just liking a certain coat colour or length – there are ethical considerations with some breeds if you really want to consider the cat’s welfare. There are also health issues which you need to check with the breeder and things you need to ask. Good breeders aim to breed healthy, people-friendly cats and avoid (or seek to deal with) inherited disorders which arise.
What breed of cat should I choose?
There are many different breeds, some of which will require extra care and attention, for example if they have a very long coat or even no coat at all. Some pedigree cats are more people orientated and may not like to be left alone for long periods. If you are out all day at work it may be worth getting two kittens together for company – do your research about the breed you are interested in. Always make sure that health comes first, no matter what the ‘look’.
Can I have a cat if I have a dog?
If you have other pets there should not be a problem in getting a cat, but you just need to make sure that you take everything into consideration. If you have a dog you just need to make sure that you make introductions carefully so that your new cat is not chased or injured while the dog gets used to it. Not all dog types make good companions for cats.
How many cats can I have together?
It’s very easy to ‘collect’ cats – they’re addictively beautiful, they’re small and they’re quite easy to care for. Even if they don’t get on, they tend to remove themselves from the situation rather than fight. However, there may be a great deal of tension between cats which owners just don’t pick up on. Cats originate from a largely solitary species and although they can live in groups these are usually related individuals or are self-selected so that cats are not sharing space with cats that they don’t get on with. Cats may start to spray or soil in the house because they’re trying to deal with a situation where they feel under stress because of other cats, and this might be all that owners notice.
If you have two cats living together very successfully then think very carefully before you add more. If you have three cats living well together then thank your stars and quit while you’re ahead! The trouble with adding more is that it might not be just the relationship between the resident cats and the new one that causes problems; it may upset the whole equilibrium of the resident cats’ relationship and introduce difficulties even between the original cats as tension and stress levels rise. Any new cat needs careful introduction.
The best way to have two compatible cats is to choose siblings. These will have grown up together, and this usually bodes well for a good future relationship (although never guaranteed!).
What does it cost to keep a cat?
If you are buying a pedigree cat then there will be associated costs and these may be quite large. Pedigree kittens usually come vaccinated and in some cases already neutered. If you are getting a cat from a rescue organisation then they may ask for a donation or a fee and again it will probably come already neutered and vaccinated. Kittens or cats from friends or neighbours don’t usually come neutered or vaccinated, wormed, treated for fleas or anything else and it will be up to you to register with a vet and get these things done. Neutering is obviously a one-off cost, but several vaccinations will be required to make sure that a kitten is protected from infectious diseases; thereafter a regular booster vaccination will help to protect it during its life (requirements depend on the cat’s lifestyle and risks associated with that – your vet can advise you). Then there is food, preventive health care regarding treatment for fleas and ticks and worms, cat litter if you want or need an indoor litter tray, beds and grooming equipment if you take on a longhaired cat. Microchipping is also recommended in case your cat goes missing. We recommend that you also insure your cat so that if an accident or illness happens then you do not have to worry about the costs. Choose your insurance carefully to make sure you get what you expect or need.
I am allergic to cats – is there any breed which is better than others?
Many people think it’s a cat’s hair that causes us to react to them by sneezing, wheezing or itching. In fact it’s a protein or allergen called Fd1, present in feline saliva, which causes the allergy. Because cats groom themselves regularly they have saliva all over their coat. This dries on the coat and when the cat scratches, moves or brushes past objects the dust or dander and the hairs which contain the allergen are spread about. Cat-lovers who really want to have a cat but are allergic sometimes think that by choosing a breed with less, little or no coat they can avoid the problem. However, as it is saliva that causes the problem, this is unlikely to help, and although longhaired cats do seem to cause more allergic reactions that’s probably only because, having more hair, they’re also covered with more allergen.
It’s worth trying out different cats by visiting friends with cats to see if they elicit less of an allergic reaction. Unfortunately it’s a very difficult problem to get around for people who react or who have family members who are allergic.
What should I do with my cat when I go on holiday?
If you go away on holiday you also need to consider who is going to look after your cat. If you are only away for a day or two you can ask a neighbour to pop in and feed it and check it is OK. If you are away for more than this you may want to consider a boarding cattery, as many cats may wander looking for company. If you have a nervous cat it may hide when the feeder comes and he or she may not be able to be sure that everything is all right. A good boarding cattery will keep your cat safe and you can relax while you are away. There are bad boarding catteries however.
When should I get a new cat?
If you are considering getting a new cat or kitten, choose a time when it is quiet in your house (not in the middle of a family celebration etc) and perhaps when you have a day or two when you can help it to settle in and be there while it finds its way around, not just before you go on holiday etc.
Where do I get a cat from and how do I choose it?
Once you have thought about the responsibilities and costs of keeping a cat and what type you want, then consider where you are going to get it and how you are going to choose your cat or kitten.
Some animals never get cancer, while others can catch it from the sea. Find out more in our list of things you never knew about cancer in the wild.
Cancer is widespread in the animal kingdom; it affects molluscs, fish, reptiles, birds and mammals. Some species develop cancers very similar to humans, while others are affected by a rare, contagious form of the disease. At the other end of the spectrum, some species rarely get cancer. Genomic analysis holds the key to understanding these differences, and if we can harness that knowledge, it could help treat cancer in all its forms.
1. Clams and cockles get contagious cancer
Termed neoplasia, it has similarities to human leukaemia. It’s been found in clams, cockles, mussels and other bivalve molluscs across the world.[ The disease causes molluscs’ circulatory fluid to thicken and turn cloudy as large, cancerous cells accumulate. The cells clog up their tissues and eventually will kill the animal. Unlike leukaemia, neoplasia is not caused by changes in the DNA of an individuals’ own cells, which then divide and multiply in the body. Genomic analysis in 2016 found that the neoplasia cells taken from different molluscs are related to each other, not the individual they reside in.
Bivalves are filter feeders and so it is likely that the cells spread from one individual to another through the seawater. The cells settle in a new host, divide and multiply. How the cells survive remains unknown. The cancer can wipe out whole populations of shellfish, though the communities do usually recover.
Sanger Institute researcher Dr Daniel Garcia Souto is working with collaborators in Spain at the University of Santiago de Compostela and the University of Vigo to sequence the genomes of neoplasia cells from bivalves across Europe. They want to understand the similarities and differences with other contagious cancers and human leukaemia. The creatures could eventually help researchers test or develop new treatments that benefit people.
2. Tasmanian devils and dogs can catch cancer too
Researchers have discovered eight different transmissible cancers so far. Two in Tasmanian devils, one in dogs, and the rest in bivalve molluscs.
The Tasmanian devil cancers are facial tumours, passed between the devils when they bite each other, which they do frequently. Like the clam cancer, it hasn’t evolved from the mutated cells of the individuals it lives in. It’s deadly, and has pushed the creatures towards extinction, though scientists have recently discovered that the devil’s immune system is fighting back, and their numbers are stabilising.
A form of contagious cancer also affects stray dog populations – canine transmissible venereal tumours (CTVT). This cancer is thought to have arisen from an individual dog 11,000 years ago, termed the ‘founder dog’. The tumours are sexually transmitted, and are seen in stray dog populations in all corners of the world, though curiously not in dogs living in the exclusion zone around the Chernobyl nuclear power plant.
These transmissible cancers have been likened to parasites, life-forms in their own right, spreading from host to host.
Cancer has never been passed from animals to people, but there have been extremely rare cases of person-to-person transmission of cancer. It has only been reported a handful of times – during an organ transplantation, experimental treatment and a surgical accident.
It remains a mystery how transmissible cancers form and exist at all.
3. Bowhead whales can live to 200 and they don’t get cancer
At the other end of the scale, there are animals that very rarely get cancer. Bowhead whales are the longest living mammals. In May 2007, a bowhead whale caught off the Alaskan coast was found to have the head of a harpoon buried in its blubber. The harpoon was manufactured between 1879 and 1885, making the whale somewhere between 115 and 130 years old. Scientists have since estimated that the creatures can live to over 200.
Bowhead whales are also among the largest mammals, with some growing to 20 meters and weighing in at 100,000 kilograms. Their massive size means they have an estimated 3.7 quadrillion cells, 1,000 times the amount we do.
With so many cells, each containing a copy of the whale’s genome and the propensity for genetic typos, you might predict that cancer would be 1,000 times more common in whales than in humans. But the animals are seemingly resistant. This phenomenon is termed ‘Peto’s paradox’ after the Oxford-based scientist who first described it.[
Scientists are fascinated by how these animals can live so long, unaffected by a range of diseases. The bowhead whale genome was sequenced in 2016 and researchers hope it will give them clues into healthy aging.
Bowhead whales aren’t the only large mammals resistant to cancer….
4. Elephants have 20 copies of a tumour-suppression gene, humans only have one
Scientists have a theory as to why elephants are resistant to cancer. They have 20 copies of a tumour suppressor gene called tp53 a.k.a. the “guardian of the genome”. Humans have just one copy.[
In most human cancers tp53 is mutated, meaning it can’t carry out its normal tumour busting tasks. With spare copies of the gene, it may be that elephants’ cells can handle many more mutations before a cell is transformed into a cancer cell. Scientists are investigating how this knowledge could help develop new cancer treatments for people.
5. Naked-mole rats are resistant to cancer
There are small creatures that are resistant to cancer too. Naked mole rats are possibly the most famous ones (if you are a cancer researcher at least. They aren’t popular pets). They can live to 30 years old; a similar-sized mouse only lives to four. Cancer has only been seen a few times in a naked mole rat.
Their cancer resistance is thought to have a completely different mechanism to the one in elephants though. One theory is that it is due to the large, viscous molecule secreted by their skin cells. The molecule is much longer than the equivalent molecule in mice or humans. It’s thought to have evolved to allow their skin to easily stretch as they squeeze through small underground tunnels. It could also be making them cancer resistant, by making it harder for cancer cells to divide and spread within the body.
6. Skin cancer in humans, dogs and horses has the same genetic changes
Mucosal melanoma is a rare and poorly understood type of skin cancer. Usually skin cancer is caused by exposure to UV light, but the cause of mucosal melanoma is unknown. It can occur on mucosal linings of the sinuses, nose, mouth, vagina and anus. It’s seen across mammal species including humans, dogs and horses. By studying the genomes of the cancer cells in the different animals, Sanger Institute researchers have discovered a handful of genes that are mutated in this form of cancer across all three species. These genes are likely to be what is driving the cancers to mutate and grow, and so represent potential targets for new drugs.
It’s all about the DNA
Whatever form cancer takes, it is caused by changes to DNA. Those changes lead to cells dividing uncontrollably and eventually may form tumours. If researchers can understand the DNA changes that lead to cancer, they can understand how to stop, or reverse them to prevent and treat the disease.
Most shelter workers have heard of the magic known as antiparasitic FENBENDAZOLE-is one of my favorite antiparasitic-and is a great drug for many reasons. Fenbendazole, the active ingredient is a benzimidazole dewormer that prevents cell division. Is generally considered a safe drug, toxicity occurs only in overdose 100x and exotic species. Fenbendazole is not systemically absorbed and more than 50% out of the animal feces. It should be administered for at least 3 days to kill parasites, as it has to stop cell division for some time before it becomes fatal to the parasite.
Fenbendazole is labeled for use in cows, horses, pigs, and dogs; but it has also been used in cats, sheep, birds, reptiles, and fish. It is marked to kill roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms, but is not effective against the most common tapeworms, and therefore should not be relied upon to kill the tapes. increased use of fenbendazole in shelters is to kill whipworms, Giardia, and lungworms.
Fun fact: In the treatment of whipworm (Trichuris Vulpis) You may have heard of the rule of 3, try for three days, then repeat a course of three days in three weeks and again at three months. It is an easy treatment regimen and commonly recited, but did you know there is actually a scientific reason not to try this way now? Whipworm takes 3 months to mature from an egg to an adult. If you kill adults on day 1, then three weeks later there will be some immature adults who have matured, but you still have eggs and larvae of worms present. Wait up to 3 months and then try again, and do not bother with the treatment of three weeks.
Pharmacological (biological) properties and effects
Benzimidazole anthelmintic agent group. Fenbendazole (carbamate 5-phenyl-thio-2-benzimidazole) has a broad spectrum of effects and cestocidal nematocides, is active against adult forms, larvae and eggs of gastrointestinal and lung and cestode parasites in animals. The mechanism of action of fenbendazole is the destruction of microtubules in cells of intestinal worms and disruption of energy processes, leading to the death of the parasites. When administered orally, fenbendazole is easily absorbed in the intestine and is distributed in organs and tissues of the animal; excreted from the body in unaltered form and as metabolites, mainly in the bile and urine partially in animals also varnished milk.
Indications for use of the drug Fenbendazole
Young cattle, sheep, goats, horses, pigs, dogs, and cats are prescribed for therapeutic and prophylactic purposes in the case of: – nematodoses; – cestodoses.
Application procedure
Enter the animals once, by force to the root of the tongue in the following doses. Young cattle monieziosis – 150 mg per 15 kg of animal body weight; with dictyocaulosis, hemonkhoze, Bunostomiasis, esophagostomosis, nematodirosis, ostertagiasis, habertiosis, cooperiosis and strongyloidosis – 150 mg per 20 kg of animal weight. Sheep and goats with moniesiosis – 150 mg per 15 kg of animal body weight; if dictyocaulosis, hemonhose, bunostomiasis, esophagostomiasis, nematodirosis, ostertagiasis, trichostrongiloidosis, habertiosis, cooperiosis, strongyloidosis – 150 mg per 30 kg of animal weight. Foals with parascariasis strongyles and – 150 mg per 15 kg of animal weight. Piglet with ascariasis, esophagostomiasis, strongyloidiasis, trichocephalosis, metastrongyloidosis – 150 mg per 30 kg of animal weight. Adult dogs and cats toxocariasis, Toxascaris, ankilostomiasis, Uncinaria, dipilidiosis, taeniasis – 150 mg per 1.5 kg of animal weight. Puppies and kittens (more than 3 weeks old) with toxocariasis toxascaridoz, ankilostomiasis, uncinariosis, dipilidiosis and taeniasis 1 time/day for 3 days in a row in a single dose of 150 mg per 3 kg animal weight. A special diet and use of laxatives before deworming are required.
Side effects
Side effects and complications in the use of fenbendazole in accordance with the indications and dosing regimen generally not observed. With increased individual sensitivity of the animal to fenbendazole and allergic reactions, drug use stops. Overdose symptoms in animals have not been identified.
Contraindications to the use of drug Fenbendazole
– Individual animal hypersensitivity to fenbendazole. Do not use the medicine: – animals exhausted and suffering from infectious diseases; – Puppies and kittens under 3 weeks of age.
Special instructions and personal prevention measures
Simultaneous use with bromsalanflucicides is not recommended, as in cattle with this interaction, there were cases of abortion and death in sheep. Slaughter of animals for meat is permitted no earlier than 14 days after deworming. In the case of the forced slaughter of a predetermined period, the meat can be used as food for carnivores or for the production of meat and bone. Milk of dairy animals to be used for food purposes within 3 days after worming is prohibited. The milk obtained earlier than the prescribed period may be used after heat treatment as animal feed. No smoking, drinking, or eating food while working with the drug. At the end of the work, wash hands with soap and warm water.
Where to buy?
There are a large number of fenbendazole sellers on the market, one of the quality sellers is Homelab. Helmintazole 200 Pro and Helmintazole 200 Pet with active ingredient Fenbendazole 200. There are a lot of different medicines like Helmintazole 200 Pro, different types of Panacur… but the active ingredient of all of these medicines is Fenbendazole. You can buy it and other quality veterinary medicine at Homelabvet.com.
Fenbendazole
