Posted on November 18, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

Choosing a Kitten

Choosing a Kitten

You have decided you want to share your life with a kitten and be responsible for it all through cat-hood. Your commitment could last for the next 14 to 15 years or even longer. This is a serious undertaking and you want to get it as right as you can.
There are lots of places to go and get a kitten but once you have made this decision, you have to choose one individual.

More often than not it is looks that we go for – a particular favourite colour or marking. However, there is much more to it than that – what do you ask and what do you look for? You want to know about the kitten’s personality, the kitten’s needs and the kitten’s health.

What shapes a kitten’s personality?

Think of the different cats you have met in your life. Some have been extra friendly, some nervous or fearful, some bold, some even perhaps aggressive. The cats we come across in our lives can vary from pet cats to community cats to wild living or feral cats. How they have come to be those cats depends on their parents, where they were born, how much handling they have had, and what experiences they had both at an early age and later in life. All of these things can have a profound effect.

A pet cat could be defined as one that’s happy to be around people and to interact with them – just what most of us want. However, at the other end of the spectrum is the feral cat, an amazing creature which, although it looks exactly the same as a pet cat and is of the same species, can behave very differently – in fact, more like a cat belonging to a wild species (more of this later).

Cats have a wide range of personalities. How confident or fearful a cat is in adulthood will be affected by what happens in kittenhood. Much of this ‘personality’ development has already taken place before we get our kitten. For the cat, learning to enjoy the company of people takes place pretty early in its life – somewhere from about three weeks to seven or eight weeks old. During this time the kitten hasn’t yet learned to fear everything, and its mind is open to forming bonds with other animals or people and learning how to deal with new experiences without being overwhelmed by them. Think about human children when they’re toddlers, and how fearless they often are – running off without a care, touching and tasting everything, falling over and getting up again. But as they get older they begin to worry and look for reassurance when they do things.

If kittens don’t experience people or human things during the early weeks of their lives they may never be able to see them as part of ‘normal’ life. Whatever happens in the feline mind as it matures in the first couple of months, it learns to avoid and fear things that aren’t familiar to it and this then seems to be fairly fixed thereafter. So a kitten which hasn’t been handled by people, met dogs or experienced everyday things such as vacuum cleaners, doorbells, children laughing and screaming and so on, may automatically find them very threatening and react accordingly. The cat may try to avoid any interaction with things it fears, perhaps hiding away or being aggressive if it’s pursued to be stroked. This often happens with kittens born to stray or feral cats which don’t meet people at an early age. People think that they are being kind in trying to nurture or ‘tame’ such cats, but often they are causing great stress. The cat’s mind doesn’t really have the ability to respond because the pathways weren’t created when it was young enough. Cats do continue to learn beyond eight weeks of age, but if the fundamentals are missing there may be little or nothing to build upon. So a fearful kitten is likely to be a fearful cat and no amount of love from an owner may have a great effect on this.

The point of this discussion about cat personality is to try and help new owners to understand what shapes the potential personality of a cat in relation to being a pet cat and living closely with people. Most owners want a cat that enjoys being with them and their family and friends. If you choose a fearful kitten because you feel sorry for it, and think that just by being kind you’ll bring it around, you may have a long and disappointing relationship. The kitten may actually develop into a very stressed adult because you’re asking it to live in a household that holds many fearful challenges for it. On the other hand, if you live a very quiet life and want a cat that’s not too demanding and will gradually get used to you and won’t be challenged by noisy teenagers or loud music, banging doors or lots of visitors, a rather less robust character may suit perfectly. If you want a cat that lives outdoors most of the time and simply want to respect it as a cat, appreciate its mousing activities and feed and care for it at a distance it’s comfortable with, then there are some less people-orientated kittens that will grow into cats which will be very happy to live this type of life.

Armed with this understanding you can approach a rehoming/rescue organisation, or a breeder or answer an advert in a newspaper and ask questions to ascertain if the kitten has had the right early experiences to fit in with your needs and lifestyle. Choosing a kitten should involve your brain as well as your heart; selecting a kitten because you feel sorry for it or want to rescue it from a squalid environment may result in many years of heartache and inadvertently encourage bad breeding practice (by rewarding the breeder because you have bought a kitten). So, research the litter just by asking questions over the telephone before you view. If you are not satisfied with any of the answers to your questions then it may be better to look elsewhere for another kitten – it may also save a lot of time travelling.

What questions should I ask over the telephone?

1. What have the kittens experienced in their first 8 weeks of life?

As explained above, this is a sensitive time in kitten learning. The best scenario is that kittens have been kept in a home environment (or moved into the home environment well within the first 8 weeks of life) and are used to all those things associated with human living – people, noises, smells, visitors, children, dogs etc. The worst scenario is that the kittens have been isolated from all the things associated with normal living so that when they do experience it in a new home it is frightening and they never really get to grips with it. This can happen in rehoming/rescue facilities if kittens are kept in a pen and not handled or exposed to everyday living – many good rehoming/rescues organisations expose their kittens to these things and make sure they are handled by different people. This can also happen in the pedigree breeder situation where too many cats are being bred, often in outside pens, and each litter is not getting the handling and exposure it needs to make good confident pet cats. It is also a risk with kittens born to free-living or feral cats, such as on a farm, where again they gain no exposure to humans until it is too late.

2. What is the temperament of the mother cat (and the father if known?)

‘Friendliness’ can be influenced by genes and, like people, cats will have a genetic component as to how they react to the world. Some will be bold, some naturally nervous or shy. For moggies or non-pedigree cats, the combination of genes from each parent is not usually controlled by people and frequently the father of the kittens is never seen. A friendly mother will pass on friendly genes as well as being relaxed and interactive with people as an example to her kittens. For pedigree cat breeders who control the matings of their cats, there is a chance to breed from friendly cats to incorporate this into the next generation. It should always be possible to view the other kittens should you decide to visit.

3. If I decide on a pedigree breed, is there a breed disposition for a certain type of behaviour?

Cats in general have very individual personalities – some are noisy, some are active, others are very laid back. However, there are some breeds where some aspects of personality are likely to come through – Siamese cats, for example, are known for their talkative nature and some breeds are quite demanding of attention. So it is best to ascertain what you might be taking on or what you want your cat to do – there is no guarantee it will happen, but it is more likely where this behaviour is seen among this group or breed of cats.

4. Ask about your particular requirements

If you have a dog at home, it is a lot easier to integrate the kitten if it has already met a dog or dogs and is not frightened. Likewise, if you have children, ask if the kitten has met children – those that have will take the high pitched voices and somewhat erratic or sudden movements of children in their stride. If the kitten has just been around women and not met men it may be fearful of loud deep voices, so again ask the question.

The answers to these questions will give you an idea of the quality of care the kittens are receiving. The next step is to visit and view the kittens.

Looking for clues about the kitten’s health

When choosing a kitten, you should check the animal for signs of ill-health, such as runny eyes or nose, dirty ears, a dirty or sore area under the tail which may indicate the cat is suffering from diarrhoea. The kitten should look well, with bright eyes, a good coat and be able to move easily.

Ask to see the other kittens in the litter and the mother to make sure that they are healthy too.

Follow your instincts and don’t be taken in by stories of how that runny eye had just happened etc. Many people come away with a kitten which is not 100% because they are told it will all be fine by the breeder or rescue.

If you have arrived to find that the rescue/breeder/pet shop or whatever facility is homing the kittens is dirty, smelly and has lots of other cats and kittens then be very wary. Good hygiene is essential to keeping kittens healthy and they can be very vulnerable.

What questions should I ask to ascertain a kitten’s needs?

1. May I handle the kittens?

Ask to handle the kitten to assess how relaxed it is with people. Is it well socialised and friendly or is it scared? Spend a bit of time with it in case it is just initially a little wary of new people but soon adapts, or whether it just tries to hide away. Ask to see the whole litter to see how they react to you, each other and the environment. Ideally, you should be looking for a kitten that responds in equal measures to all of these!

2. What sex is the kitten and how old is it?

Ask about the cat’s sex and how old it is. Pedigree kittens are usually over 12 weeks old when they are rehomed but non-pedigree or moggies may be around 8 weeks old.

3. What type of coat will the kitten have?

It can be hard to tell if a moggie kitten is going to be long haired unless its mother has a long coat (often the father is never seen). However, if you are taking on a pedigree cat then you will know how it is going to turn out. A Persian will need daily grooming and other breeds with slightly less undercoat will need regular grooming as well. However, lack of a coat does not mean the kitten will be easy to care for – some of the Rex breeds (with a sparse wavy coat) and the hairless breeds such as the Sphynx need a lot of time and effort spent on keeping the skin clean. Some will leave greasy marks on furniture and will need regular bathing (click here for information on breed health).

4. What other care will the kitten need, both now and as an adult?

Some breeds, such as Persians and Exotics, have very flat faces. In making the face this flat the natural drainage of tears from the eye may be blocked and the tears overflow over the face. This must be very uncomfortable for the cats and can cause staining or skin problems. Owners must be able to clean the eyes and face on a regular basis. Other breeds with more pointed skulls may have more inset eyes which may also need care.

Ask about vaccination – most pedigree kittens will have had their vaccinations before they can be homed, but it is worth checking. Many kittens from rescue may also have had at least one vaccination, depending on the age at which they are homed. Make sure you get the vaccination certificate if you take on the kitten.

Have the kittens has been wormed and treated for fleas? If so, what with?

Have any of the kittens got ongoing health issues requiring medication? (If this is the case and you still wish to take on the kitten, ask for advice on how to give the tablets, eye-drops or ear-drops so that you know what you have to do. )

If the kitten is a pedigree, ask about any tests for inherited diseases (click here to look at individual breeds and what they can be tested for).

5. How much attention will the kitten need, both now and as an adult?

Some breeds are more needy of attention and company than others, others will be much more independent. Again decide what suits you.

6. What food, litter etc is currently being used?

Ask what the kitten is currently eating, what type of litter it is used to etc. Check up on whether the information you have been given is correct as sometimes people have not been feeding the best diet for a growing kitten. However, if you are changing food, do it gradually so as to avoid stomach upsets.

7. Ask if the kitten is insured

In countries where it is available, such as in the UK, many breeders, rescue organisations and even individuals who have bred an ‘accidental’ litter will provide new owners with insurance cover for the kitten which lasts for the first 6 weeks in its new home. This covers health issues and other benefits. The insurance company will then contact the new owner to see if they wish to continue with the insurance. Insurance to cover vet fees (and other things) is a great idea and gives peace of mind about payment should problems occur – the first year of a kitten’s life can be its most hazardous because kittens and young cats can get themselves into all sorts of trouble – the saying ‘curiosity killed the cat’ is based on some truth. Kittens must learn fast as they grow and this means being inquisitive; it can however get them into trouble. To decide whether you want to keep the insurance cover check what it actually does.

Be prepared to walk away

Potential owners must be prepared to walk away and not purchase a kitten out of pity because it’s ill or scared, just in order to ‘save’ it from its current environment. Although this sounds very hard, you don’t want to be left with a kitten that may have health or attitude problems for years to come and is likely to be difficult and disappointing to live with.

Do your homework

Do your homework first, and then go and visit. Most breeders will ask you to come along for a first viewing when the kittens are still a bit too young to rehome (the breeding organisations require them to keep kittens until they’re about 12 weeks old and have had at least their first vaccinations in order to protect them). Don’t go from one breeder to another and handle the kittens – you could carry viruses on your hands and clothes which could be passed on to vulnerable kittens, so breeders may be quite strict about asking you not to do this in order to protect the health of their cats. A good breeder or rescue centre will want to find out if you’ll care for the kitten properly and will give you lots of advice. They should be able to provide help or advice if you need it and will want to hear from you if you have any problems. They should also be willing to take the kitten back should serious problems arise but this does not always happen and often new owners have fallen in love with the new kitten and can’t bear to give it back. Knowledge and information is the key, and ignorance is no excuse for either producing or buying a kitten that’s ill or poorly socialised.

Posted on November 18, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

Introducing a Kitten to your Cat

Introducing a new cat or kitten

to a household can be quite stressful, to all concerned.

Indeed, it can be easier to introduce a dog to a cat than a cat to a cat. This is because a cat won’t view a dog as competition for resources – it might have to get used to its excited behaviour and learn to stand up to it to avoid being chased, but this usually happens very quickly and much more easily than we imagine. The cat-cat thing is much more difficult.

It’s usually easier to introduce a new kitten than an adult cat – this tends to be less challenging for the resident cat. Kitten body language and movements are less threatening and they have yet to adopt the concept of territory and competing with others.

A little bit of extra effort at the beginning can make the difference between a good or bad relationship in the future.

Plan ahead

Your existing cat (or cats) will have established territory and the introduction of another, albeit a little kitten, is not necessarily going to be well received. It’s important to ensure that the resident cat is not given the impression that it is under siege. When choosing your new kitten, have your cat’s personality in mind. For example, don’t acquire a very confident and outgoing kitten if your existing cat is timid or shy.

Arrange to collect your kitten on a day when you know you will have plenty of time to devote to settling it in, for example, a couple of days over a weekend or during a time when you are not at work and the household is relatively peaceful. Some planning is necessary to prepare the home for the new arrival and the introduction process so, before the kitten arrives, purchase or hire a kitten pen (or large dog ‘crate’ of similar construction) and position it in a room that your existing cat doesn’t particularly favour, for example, a spare bedroom. A kitten pen is a large metal cage with a solid floor that is normally used for kittening queens or cats after surgery that need to be confined. It is quite large with plenty of room for a bed, toys, food, water and a litter tray. They are easily collapsible to enable the pen to be moved from room to room.

Think cat!

Think cat once your new kitten arrives and think scent first. Your home will have a scent ‘profile’ which is familiar and reassuring to your resident cat. It will consist of all those things that go on there, the dogs, the children, the hobby equipment, the cleaning materials, the food you like and so on, all mixed in with your cat’s own scent. All the corners of your furniture will have been wiped by your cat’s chin and face, the doorposts have been brushed by its coat and the carpet will often bear the marks of claw sharpening and the scent from its paws. Your home is well and truly possessed by your cat.

What you have to try to do is work in the scent of the new kitten so that it, too, is incorporated into the accepted household aroma. This comes down, initially, to you. You have to try to spread and mix the scents of the cats. You’re working with the invisible, but have faith that there’s actually something there! Stroking your cat and the kitten regularly and swapping bedding will enable the kitten’s smell to become familiar and incorporated into the communal, household scent.

The first meeting

The door to the kitten’s room should remain closed initially, allowing the kitten to exercise within that space when your other cat is not around. The kitten’s food, water, toys and bed can be positioned outside the pen but the litter tray should remain within it. When the initial contact between kitten and cat takes place it may be helpful to distract the kitten with food.

The door to the room can be opened while the kitten is eating in the cage (with the cage door shut). It may be helpful, to allow the kitten to feel secure, if there is a covered box within the cage so that the kitten can hide from any unwanted attention as your other cat explores. If you wish, a small bowl of your cat’s favourite food can be located a comfortable distance away to encourage eating in safety (bearing in mind that cats are solitary feeders) without being deterred by the sight of the kitten. Your cat should be allowed to explore the cage without intervention.

It is important to provide attention to the existing cat during this transitional period but not to exceed the amount normally accepted and enjoyed. Existing routines should be maintained to demonstrate that the kitten represents no loss of resources or enjoyment.

Once kitten and cat appear calm when in close proximity to each other (with the kitten inside and the resident cat outside the cage), the pen can be moved to other rooms (of increasing importance to the resident cat), leaving out those particularly favoured areas where the adult cat spends the majority of its time. Depending on progress, several weeks of this regime may be needed before opening the cage and letting the cats get to know each other, some introductions can take considerably less time and the kitten accepted fairly quickly. When the cage door is left open and the kitten is allowed to mix freely the contact between adult and kitten should still be closely supervised. It may be advisable to separate the kitten and adult cat when supervision is not possible, at least until their relationship is firmly established.

Both kitten and adult, in the long-term, should be provided with their own resources (bed, litter tray, food bowls, water bowls etc) positioned in separate locations and their own private areas where they can rest undisturbed by the other.

Posted on October 29, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

What is the animal welfare?

Animal welfare

means how an animal is coping with the conditions in which it lives. An animal is in a good state of welfare if (as indicated by scientific evidence) it is healthy, comfortable, well-nourished, safe, able to express innate behavior, and if it is not suffering from unpleasant states such as pain, fear, and distress. Good animal welfare requires disease prevention and veterinary treatment, appropriate shelter, management, nutrition, humane handling, and humane slaughter. Animal welfare refers to the state of the animal; the treatment that an animal receives is covered by other terms such as animal care, animal husbandry, and humane treatment.¹ Protecting an animal’s welfare means providing for its physical and mental needs.

Ensuring animal welfare is a human responsibility that includes consideration for all aspects of animal well-being, including proper housing, management, nutrition, disease prevention and treatment, responsible care, humane handling, and, when necessary, humane euthanasia.

There are numerous perspectives on animal welfare that are influenced by a person’s values and experiences. There are also various means of measuring animal welfare, including (but not limited to) health, productivity, behavior, and physiological responses.

The American Veterinary Medical Association has defined its commitment to animal welfare through the adoption of the following Animal Welfare Principles that serves as guidance when the Association develops policies and takes action to ensure the welfare of animals:

The AVMA, as a medical authority for the health and welfare of animals, offers the following eight integrated principles for developing and evaluating animal welfare policies, resolutions, and actions.

The responsible use of animals for human purposes, such as companionship, food, fiber, recreation, work, education, exhibition, and research conducted for the benefit of both humans and animals, is consistent with the Veterinarian’s Oath.
Decisions regarding animal care, use, and welfare shall be made by balancing scientific knowledge and professional judgment with consideration of ethical and societal values.
Animals must be provided water, food, proper handling, health care, and an environment appropriate to their care and use, with thoughtful consideration for their species-typical biology and behavior.
Animals should be cared for in ways that minimize fear, pain, stress, and suffering.
Procedures related to animal housing, management, care, and use should be continuously evaluated, and when indicated, refined or replaced.
Conservation and management of animal populations should be humane, socially responsible, and scientifically prudent.
Animals shall be treated with respect and dignity throughout their lives and, when necessary, provided a humane death.
The veterinary profession shall continually strive to improve animal health and welfare through scientific research, education, collaboration, advocacy, and the development of legislation and regulations.

If you want your animal never had a worm you should give them anthelmintic treatment – one of the best is Fenbendazole, Helmintazole.

If you want to buy Fenbendazole (Helmintazole…) online, you can buy it at Homelabvet.com, there are a lot of different types of Fenbendazole with different dosages.

Posted on October 18, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

Fenbendazole. What is fenbendazole?

What is fenbendazole

Fenbendazole (brand names Helmintazole®, Helmintazole Pro®, Helmintazole 200®, Helmintazole 222®, Helmintazole 500 caps®, Helmintazole 50 Tab®, Panacur®, Safe-Guard®) is a medication used to treat a variety of parasites (e.g., roundworms, hookworms, lungworm, whipworm, and certain types of tapeworms) in dogs. Its use in cats for the treatment of parasites is ‘off label’ or ‘extra-label’. Many drugs are commonly prescribed for off-label use in veterinary medicine. In these instances, follow your veterinarian’s directions and cautions very carefully.

How is fenbendazole given?

Fenbendazole comes as oral granules, tablets, capsules or as a liquid suspension and is given by mouth. Liquid forms must be measured carefully.

Fenbendazole should be given with food to reduce gastrointestinal upset.

Give this medication as directed by your veterinarian. Fenbendazole is often given once daily for 3 consecutive days and then again in another round 2-3 weeks later.

It is important that your pet receives all of the doses recommended by your veterinarian for best results. Do not stop early or skip doses unless recommended by your veterinarian. Retreatment may be necessary if doses are missed, the medication is stopped too soon, or if reinfection from the environment occurs.

This medication should take effect within 1 to 2 days, but visible effects will take the entire duration of treatment to be recognized.

What if I miss giving my pet the medication (or my shipment is late)?

If you miss a dose, give it when you remember. If it is close to the time for the next dose, skip the missed dose and give it at the next scheduled time. Never give your pet two doses at once or give extra doses.

Are there any potential side effects?

At regular doses, fenbendazole does not usually cause any side effects. Sometimes, substances released by the dying parasites may cause an allergic reaction, especially if fenbendazole is given at higher than regular doses. If your pet shows signs of an allergic reaction (facial swelling, itchiness, hives, diarrhea, seizures, or shock) seek veterinary care immediately.

Salivation, vomiting, and diarrhea may occur in dogs or cats receiving this medication.

This moderate-acting medication should stop working in a few days, although effects can be longer in pets with liver or kidney disease.

Are there any risk factors for this medication?

Fenbendazole is safe for use in most pets. Fenbendazole should not be used in:

puppies younger than 6 weeks of age.
sick animals

Are there any drug interactions I should be aware of?

While there are no known drug interactions with fenbendazole, be sure to tell your veterinarian about any medications (including vitamins, supplements, or herbal therapies) that your pet is taking.

Is there any monitoring that needs to be done with this medication?

Your veterinarian may recommend a fecal examination to be sure that all internal parasites have been killed and determine if additional doses are needed.

How do I store fenbendazole?

Store fenbendazole granules, tablets or capsules in a sealed container at room temperature and protected from sunlight.

If your veterinarian has made a special formulation for your pet, follow the storage recommendations on the label and expiration date for the product.

What should I do in case of emergency?

If you suspect an overdose or an adverse reaction to the medication, call your veterinary office. If they are not available, follow their directions in contacting an emergency facility.

If you want to buy Fenbendazole(Helmintazole…) online, you can buy it at Homelabvet.com, there are a lot of different types of Fenbendazole with different dosages.

Posted on October 15, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

Cats and womans

Cat and woman

The unique tandem of cats and women has always attracted attention and generated many different theories about their relationship with each other. Although cats have always been distinguished by their independence and dissimilarity to other living beings, their similarities with women and their special relationship with them require a special discussion.

Pure Beauty

The main common feature that a woman and a cat have is the desire of both beauty and conquest of the world. Such a tradition originated in the depths of centuries, and even in ancient times cats were always depicted next to the most beautiful women, and any beauty was automatically compared in her grace and grace to representatives of the cat family. And, of course, cats and women always got along very well. For example, in Turkey, statuettes were found dating back to the 6th millennium BC, which depicts women playing with cats. And even then, each mistress of the house reserved for her pet the most privileged place in the house.

This is not surprising, because a woman and a cat have one more thing in common – independence, bordering on affection. It was the gentleness of a woman who always attracted a cat to her side, and thanks to this, the feline race was closely intertwined with the human one, and the cat began not only to decorate the house with itself but also to protect it from various dangers. Soon, in almost every country, special rules and laws appeared that require respectful and reverent treatment of cats:

in Britain there was a code of laws determining the value of a cat and prescribing punishment for cruelty to it;
in America, a cat immediately became an object of exchange trade, as well as the patroness of many houses, which she saved from epidemics and other disasters;
in Paraguay, at the legislative level, it has been established that every cat is worth a pound of gold;
in Ancient Russia in the 14th-century laws existed that penalized cat larceny and imposed huge fines on thieves.

And in each of the situations, the behavior of cats was not important: animals were considered sacred even when they showed their difficult character, and it was women who played a significant role in recognizing their sacred value.

Unattainable ideal

In addition, from time immemorial, women and cats have in common many common features – both appearance and character:

resourcefulness and intelligence inherent in both
quick reaction and agility,
excellent plastic
undeniable external beauty
some detachment.

Thanks to this, women gave their hearts to cats many centuries ago. And today this tradition continues, because it is in the graceful representatives of feline women that they see a real ideal, which is often unattainable for themselves.

A cat for women is a living embodiment of beauty, and the independent behavior of cats is an example to follow. This is not surprising, because:

cats do not have problems with being overweight,
cats do not need fur coats – their silky and delicate fur is admired by everyone;
cats do not need to fawn in front of people to be stroked – it only allows you to do this if she liked the person;
the cat is always beautiful, no matter what she does;
the cat does not need to take care of its kittens all its life and even think about who it is pregnant from;
the cat is patient and ready to faithfully listen to all the sorrows of its owners, without giving them any stupid advice,
the behavior of cats can be anything, but no one can be angry for a graceful and touching animal for a long time.
And, of course, there are some comic “differences” between women and cats, which men often like to talk about:
the cat is fluffy throughout the body, and not just on the head,
for beauty, the cat doesn’t need makeup,
the cat remains graceful in any situation,
the cat eats less
the cat can purr beautifully,
the cat is easy to keep on your lap
if her owner gets sick, the cat will just sleep next to him, without disturbing him,
the cat will never whimper and complain
the cat is always clean and takes care of itself,
the cat will not be offended by you if you are tired and you are not up to it,
a good word will always please a cat,
the cat doesn’t need new outfits,

Getting a cat in the house is always very easy!

However, even in spite of these small “differences”, it is the woman and the cat who always get along best with each other. And even if the owner of the animal is just the man, his pet can easily neglect it, and all attention will be paid to his chosen one!

Also, if you want your lovely cat always be happy and healthy, you should give to your cat antihelminth treatment like Helmintazole with the active ingredient Fenbendazole (펜 벤다 졸). If you need Fenbendazole for worm treatment you can always buy it at Homelabvet.com.

Posted on October 10, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

EXTRA AUTUMN DEWORMER SALE!

promo Helmintazole fenbendazole homelab

Today we have a great news about our dewormers. If you want to have a great discount on dewormer products you need just follow the link above.

If you follow by link above, you can buy the most popular dewormers of most popular companies. Extra sale for Helmintazole by Homelab, Panacur, Safe Guard, Fencur, fendeworm, Fenbendazole and etc. All of this dewormers includes active ingredient fenbendazole which is very effective for worm treatment.

Posted on September 30, 2019 by sergeyufe — Leave a comment

Do I need to cut my cat?

Do I need to cut my cat

Nature provided the cat with everything you need – hunting skills, excellent eyesight and hearing, retractable claws, flexibility and unique grace, functional and beautiful wool. Cats are very clean animals, but can not maintain a neat and healthy coat, especially long – haired cats, on their own.

Cleanliness

In order that the cat’s coat not deliver to it and various other disadvantages and to look good, the owner must periodically perform a series of hygiene procedures. If enough for the owners shorthairs your pet comb several times a week with a brush massage, then owners species long hair need to do this every day with various types of brushes. Bathing a pet with long hair and an inner layer developed also be organized more often than for short hair.

In addition, it is necessary to wash the hair using dry shampoo monthly or special spray, regular application of antistatic conditioners, lotions and balms health of wool. Otherwise, mats, which needs to be cut, and all kinds of skin diseases are formed.

When do I need to cut cats?

No need to cut a pet if there is an opportunity to organize good nutrition, vitamin support for animals and care all stages of their six. Cat grooming is needed in certain cases:

– the animal is difficult to tolerate heat due to the wool in bulk;
– the cat resists hygiene procedures will not be allowed to be bathed and combed;
– Skin diseases;
– the presence of mats;
– as one of the measures prolonged moulting caused for several reasons;
– pedestrian street animal wool adverse weather conditions;
– get the wool in the digestive tract, with consequences as vomiting and defecation problems;
– participation in exhibitions.

Lack of time to take care of animal hair and regular cleaning of the room, the presence of allergic reactions among family members of the owners or house guests, also among the reasons why the cat owners apply to animal groomers. The list price for haircuts dogs and cats includes decorative and haircuts from a purely hygienic orientation. There are restrictions on the choice of cat hair cuts – even for decorative purposes can not cut off the head, mustache, hair in the ears and the tip of the tail cats.

Effects of cats grooming

After shearing, the condition of the animal ‘s hair may change. The possible consequences of the procedure:

– change the structure of wool and skin elasticity of the animal;
– wool in the abdomen and back after cutting has a darker shade;
– deteriorating adaptation to temperature changes;
– Alopecia or all sorts of problems with fouling hair.

To teach cats hygiene procedures and haircut, preferably from childhood. Otherwise, any tampering with the animal ‘s fur can bring great stress for the pet. Do not cut the cat yourself, as it can harm the animal. A hairdresser with experience is able to find an approach to a scared client, so you do not need the use of muzzles, collars and other means to maintain strength for a pet.

Some cats may be cut only with the use of sedatives. Correctly designate the correct means can only be a veterinarian, start your reception should be a couple of days prior to the procedure. In some cases, a haircut can be done only with the use of immobilization of pharmacological medications or under anesthesia. Any anesthesia must be selected and controlled by a veterinarian. Anesthesia has many contraindications and can adversely affect the health of the pet.