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Things You Should Know About Canine and Feline Arthritis

Dog Arthritis

Arthritis

is an infamous problem among dogs. Many vets and dog owners struggle for years, trying to control the lameness, soreness, and reduced activity level associated with canine osteoarthritis. But in recent years veterinarians have made significant strides towards understanding more about osteoarthritis in cats – mainly from the standpoint of simply recognizing that it does happen and that it can cause significant pain and discomfort in our feline friends.

Because cats are so good at hiding their medical problems from us, it’s important that cat owners understand how to recognize potential problems before they become serious. Read on to learn about the symptoms associated with arthritis, and some strategies for successfully dealing with this problem.

Just how big of a problem is this?

One study looked at the x-rays of 100 cats that were randomly selected and between ages 6 months and 20 years. The study found signs of osteoarthritis in 91% of cats in their front and rear leg joints. It found evidence of arthritis in the spine of 55% of these cats. The study also found that the incidence of arthritis increased dramatically as cats aged.

What’s even more interesting is that arthritis is often what we consider an “incidental” finding on the x-rays of cats, meaning that the vets weren’t even taking the x-rays because they suspected a problem in that location. That fact alone should really drive home the point that many, many cats are living with this problem, and very few of them are telling us about it.

Most of the time when people say “arthritis”, they mean “osteoarthritis”. But there are other types, and it’s worth a couple of minutes of our time to understand exactly what we mean when we diagnose the problem.

Osteoarthritis is the most common type of arthritis in both dogs and cats. It occurs when the cartilage that covers the surface of joints wears away, eventually causing bone to contact bone and exposing the exquisitely sensitive pain receptors in these areas. The body tries really hard to fix the problem by creating new cartilage, but unfortunately cartilage doesn’t regenerate very well, and the “new” surface is often bumpy and uneven.

Why does the cartilage gets worn in the first place? Most of the time it’s due to either previous joint damage, such as might occur if a cat is hit by a car or falls from a high place, or due to a birth defect that resulted in improper formation of the joint. We’re really just starting to understand that hip dysplasia, previously thought to be almost exclusively a problem of large dogs, is pretty common in our feline friends as well.

Other types of arthritis include septic arthritis, due to infection in the bloodstream, and immune-mediated arthritis, such as what we see in people who have rheumatoid arthritis. Both of these kinds of arthritis do occur in cats, but much less often than osteoarthritis.

My cat doesn’t have arthritis. I’ve never even seen him limping.

Another fascinating finding about feline arthritis is that cats with the disease typically don’t look anything like dogs with the disease. We’re used to seeing “gimpy” old dogs, that hobble around due to osteoarthritis, so it makes sense that we’d expect the same from cats. However, we’re commonly reminded in vet school that cats aren’t small dogs, and this is just one of the many ways that they’re different. Cats with arthritis typically don’t display signs of lameness.

So how are you supposed to get the hint that your cat might have osteoarthritis? The signs are subtle, but if you pay attention you’ll see changes in your cat that will prompt you to go to the vet, who can do a thorough orthopedic exam and hopefully zero in on areas of pain. Signs of arthritis in cats include sudden aggression towards people or other animals in the house (especially in cats that used to be happy and peaceful), difficulty jumping, loss of interest in surroundings, decreased activity levels, avoiding the litter box (even when previously trained well), vocalizing, and decreased grooming (especially overgrown claws).

The most interesting symptom to me in this list is the development of litter box problems. Failure to use the litter box is the number one reason that cats are relinquished to shelters in the U.S. How truly sad to think that many of these cats might really be painful, and have problems getting into and out of the box, or with squatting. This is one of the reasons that fixing litter box problems always starts with a complete medical workup.

But my cat’s not old!

Unfortunately, arthritis is a disease that can happen to young cats as well as old cats. This is especially true in cats that have previously experienced trauma. Even if the injury was repaired, the potential for in congruencies in a previously normal joint is there. When the joint isn’t properly fitted together, there’s room for laxity, and this laxity creates the cartilage erosion that leads to osteoarthritis.

Can’t I just give my cat some aspirin?

аспирин

No, please don’t! We counsel owners frequently about whether to treat cats at home for pain. While it can be dangerous to use over-the-counter human pain relievers in dogs, it’s absolutely critical that drugs like aspirin, Tylenol, and Advil NOT be given to cats. Aspirin and Advil (and other drugs like them such as Motrin) create severe gastrointestinal problems as well as kidney failure. Tylenol produces a severe and life-threatening problem called Heinz body anemia in cats.

Unfortunately, cats do not do well with most of the pain relievers that we easily use to treat arthritis in dogs. However, with close observation, they can tolerate some drugs well and provide significant relief and improvement in clinical signs. The opioid drug buprenorphine can be administered orally to cats and has excellent analgesic effects. The downside is that it tends to be expensive with prolonged use and can cause constipation. Tramadol is a synthetic opioid that has long been used in humans and may provide more cost-effective relief for cats. And gabapentin helps many cats feel better. VetExpert Arthrovet Capsules and Canina Petvital Arthro Tablets are very effective for cats and dogs. You can buy these drugs from the Homelabvet Online Store.

Currently, Metacam appears to be the only veterinary drug that is both effective and generally safe for long-term use in cats for inflammatory pain associated with arthritis. Because it can also cause gastrointestinal problems as well as kidney failure, cats taking this drug should be closely monitored with repeated lab tests to look for signs that the drug may be causing side effects.

What else can I do to help relieve pain associated with arthritis?

Start by changing your environment. Place food and water where you do not need to jump. Use ramps and stairs to help cats climb and get off furniture. Create trash bins you don’t have to jump into by purchasing plastic storage bins and cutting out a “door” on the side. Groom your cat regularly, especially in areas that are difficult for a cat with arthritis to reach. And make sure your cat has a warm and comfortable sleeping environment.

Supplements such as fish oil and glucosamine can also help. It is important to use products that are reliably manufactured and formulated for cats. There are also several high-quality diets available for cats with osteoarthritis. And since obesity exacerbates the clinical signs of arthritis, losing weight on your cat is likely to significantly improve well-being.

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Ivermectin (Iverhelm) treatment is a ”real killer of parasites”

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Ivermectin (Iverhelm)

Characteristics of the substance Ivermectin
Refers to avermectins.

Pharmacology
Pharmacological action – local anti-inflammatory.
Pharmacodynamics

It has an anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of inflammatory cytokines induced by lipopolysaccharides. The anti-inflammatory properties of ivermectin have been observed in animal models of skin inflammatory processes. Ivermectin also causes the death of parasites, mainly through selective binding and high affinity for glutamate-regulated chlorine channels found in the nerve and muscle cells of invertebrates. The mechanism of action of ivermectin in the treatment of inflammatory skin lesions in rosacea is not fully understood, but it may be associated with both anti-inflammatory effects and the ability to cause the death of Demodex mites, which, in turn, can be a factor causing skin inflammation.

Pharmacokinetics

Suction. The absorption of ivermectin was assessed in a clinical study involving adult patients with severe papulopustular rosacea, using the maximum tolerated dose. In equilibrium (after 2 weeks of treatment), the highest mean (± standard deviation) plasma concentrations of ivermectin were observed within (10 ± 8) h after application (Cmax – (2.1 ± 1) ng / ml, range – 0 , 7-4 ng / ml), and the highest mean (± standard deviation) AUC0-24 was (36 ± 16) ng · h / ml, range – 14-75 ng · h / ml). Systemic exposure to ivermectin reached a plateau by the end of the second week of treatment under steady state conditions. With longer treatment in phase III studies, the systemic exposure to ivermectin remained the same as after 2 weeks of treatment. Under Css conditions, the levels of systemic exposure of ivermectin (AUC0-24 (36 ± 16) ng · h / ml) were lower than after a single oral intake of 6 mg ivermectin in healthy volunteers (AUC0-24 (134 ± 66) ng · h / ml) …

Distribution. An in vitro study has shown that the binding of ivermectin to blood plasma proteins (mainly albumin) is more than 99%. No significant binding of ivermectin to erythrocytes was observed.

Metabolism. In in vitro studies using human liver microsomes and recombinant CYP450 enzymes, it has been noted that ivermectin is metabolized primarily by CYP3A4.

In vitro studies have shown that ivermectin does not inhibit the isoenzymes CYP1A2, CYP2A6, CYP2B6, CYP2C8, CYP2C9, CYP2C19, CYP2D6, CYP3A4, CYP4A11 or CYP2E1. Ivermectin does not induce the expression of isoenzymes CYP1A2, CYP2B6, CYP2C9 or CYP3A4) in cultured human hepatocytes. The two main metabolites of ivermectin (3′-O-demethylivermectin and 4a-hydroxyivermectin) were identified in a clinical pharmacokinetic study using the maximum allowable dose of this agent and were studied in phase II clinical trials. Like the parent compound, the metabolites reached equilibrium by the end of the second weeks of treatment, no signs of accumulation were observed in the period up to 12 weeks In addition, the systemic exposure of metabolites (assessed using Cmax and AUC), obtained at steady state, was much lower than for ivermectin after oral administration.

Excretion. The final T1 / 2 averaged 6 days (approximately 145 hours, range 92-238 hours) in patients who applied ivermectin to the skin 1 time per day for 28 days in a clinical pharmacokinetic study using the maximum allowable dose. Excretion from the body depends on the degree of absorption after topical application. The pharmacokinetics of ivermectin have not been studied in patients with impaired liver and kidney function.

Application of the substance Ivermectin
Inflammatory skin lesions in rosacea (papulopustular form) in adult patients.

Contraindications
Hypersensitivity; pregnancy; period of breastfeeding; age up to 18 years (safety and efficacy for this age category has not been studied).

Restrictions on use
Liver dysfunction.

Application during pregnancy and lactation
Data on the use of ivermectin in pregnant women are limited. Reproductive toxicity studies when taking ivermectin orally have shown that it has teratogenic potential in rats and rabbits, however, due to the low systemic exposure when applied externally at the recommended dosage, the risk of fetotoxicity in humans is low. The use of ivermectin during pregnancy is contraindicated.

After oral administration, low concentrations of ivermectin are excreted into breast milk. When applied topically, the release of ivermectin into breast milk has not been studied. Pharmacokinetic and toxicological data from animal studies also indicate the excretion of ivermectin in breast milk. The risk to the nursing infant cannot be excluded. If necessary, the use of ivermectin should stop breastfeeding.

Side effects of the substance Ivermectin


The most common adverse reactions, such as burning sensation, skin irritation, itching and dry skin, were noted in less than 1% of patients treated with ivermectin in clinical trials.

On the part of the skin and subcutaneous tissues: often (≥1 / 10) – burning sensation of the skin; infrequently (≥1 / 1000, <1/100) – skin irritation, itching, dry skin; frequency unknown – contact dermatitis, allergic reactions.

Typically, these reactions are mild to moderate and usually diminish with continued therapy.

There were no significant differences in the safety profile among patients aged 18 to 65 years and older.

Interaction
Studies on the interaction of ivermectin with other drugs have not been conducted. Concomitant use with other agents for external and systemic use for the treatment of rosacea has not been studied. Caution should be exercised when used simultaneously with strong inhibitors of CYP3A4, since the concentration of ivermectin in the blood plasma can increase significantly.

Overdose
There have been no reported cases of ivermectin overdose.

Symptoms: In case of accidental or significant exposure of a person to unknown amounts of veterinary forms of ivermectin (ingestion, inhalation, parenteral administration or contact with the body surface), skin rash, facial edema, eyelid edema, headache, dizziness, asthenia, nausea, vomiting, etc. diarrhea. Other reported adverse reactions include seizures, ataxia, shortness of breath, abdominal pain, paresthesia, urticaria, and contact dermatitis.

Treatment: in case of accidental ingestion, symptomatic therapy is carried out, including parenteral administration of fluids and electrolytes, respiratory support (providing oxygen and, if necessary, mechanical ventilation) and vasopressors (in the presence of a pronounced decrease in blood pressure). To prevent the absorption of ingested ivermectin, provoking vomiting and / or urgent gastric lavage followed by the use of laxatives and other measures to eliminate intoxication may be indicated.

Route of administration
Outwardly.

Precautions for the substance Ivermectin
The components of the finished dosage form of ivermectin can cause local skin reactions (eg contact dermatitis), allergic reactions (including delayed-type reactions), skin irritation.

Wash your hands after use.

After drying, you can apply cosmetics.

Influence on the ability to drive vehicles and work with mechanisms. Ivermectin does not affect or slightly affects the ability to drive vehicles and operate machinery.

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Cat scratch fever: What to do and what you should know?

Cat scratch fever: What to do and what you should know?

Cat scratch fever can happen when a person receives a bite, scratch, or lick from a cat that is infected with the bacteria Bartonella henselae.

The infection does not usually cause severe complications, but it can lead to problems for people with a weak immune system. Knowing how to spot cat scratch fever can ensure a person receives swift treatment.

Cats can transmit several types of infections to humans. Some of these diseases can be severe. Carrying out routine care for a cat often reduces the risk of many of these diseases.

Cat scratch fever: What to do and what you should know?

Causes

A person can get cat scratch fever after a scratch or bite from an infected cat. The Bartonella henselae (B. henselae) bacteria live in a cat’s saliva. They can pass to a person through an open area of skin.

Cat scratch fever is more common in the fall and winter when people are inside and playing with their cats. Children are more likely than adults to have it, and playing roughly with a cat increases the chances of getting scratched.

Symptoms

Cat scratch fever does not usually cause symptoms in the first few days or weeks after exposure when the bacteria are multiplying in the body.

About 3 to 14 days after the infection first occurred, a person may see a small bump or blister on the contact area, most commonly on the:

  • arms
  • hands
  • scalp
  • head

Doctors call this an inoculation lesion. This lesion may not occur in some cases, or an individual may not notice it on their body.

A few weeks later, the lymph nodes near the lesion may become swollen or tender.

Lymph nodes are responsible for filtering bacteria and other particles and for creating immune system cells. They usually feel like small, spongy, round or oval bumps.

If a person has had a bite or scratch on the arm, the lymph nodes under the arm or near the elbow may be especially tender.

Sometimes, the lymph nodes swell as much as 2 inches across. They may be warm to the touch, fluid-filled, or red. They may remain swollen for 2–3 weeks.

For most people, swollen lymph nodes are the only symptom. However, other symptoms that might occur include:

  • abdominal pain
  • loss of appetite
  • fever, typically not above 102°F
  • tiredness
  • a headache
  • joint pain
  • a rash
  • a sore throat

A person should see a doctor if they have a scratch that continues to get larger after 2 days.

Complications

Cat scratch fever does not usually cause severe symptoms, but some people may develop a high temperature that does not improve with time. Some people can also experience infections in the bones, joints, liver, lungs, or spleen.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), the most severe symptoms usually occur in children aged 5 years and under.

Cat scratch fever does not usually need emergency care, but sometimes it does. A person should contact their doctor immediately if they experience the following symptoms:

  • a cat bite or scratch that is not healing or is getting worse
  • the red area around a bite or scratch is enlarging
  • a high fever that lasts more than 2 days after the bite or scratch
  • severe pain

Diagnosis

Cat scratch fever can be difficult to diagnose because a number of other conditions have the same symptoms. The physician will ask about the individual’s medical history and whether they have had any interactions with a cat.

The doctor will then examine the scratched area and look for any swollen lymph nodes.

This is usually sufficient for a diagnosis, but sometimes they may suggest further tests to make sure the person does not have another condition.

The doctor might take some blood and send it to the lab to find out what kind of bacteria are present. One blood test can test specifically for cat scratch fever.

Treatment

Most cases of cat scratch fever are mild, and a doctor will not always prescribe treatment. If symptoms are moderate to severe, they may prescribe an antibiotic.

At-home treatments for the condition include bed rest if needed, and an over-the-counter pain reliever if the lymph nodes are painful or especially tender.

Children can mostly continue with their usual activities, but they should avoid hitting or interfering with the affected lymph nodes.

If a person has had cat scratch fever once, they are unlikely to have it again.

Preventionvacuum cleaner

Cats can transmit cat scratch fever to people, but people do not usually pass it to each other. If one family member is affected, others should practice caution around a family cat, as the cat could infect them also.

An episode of cat scratch fever does not mean a family should necessarily get rid of their pet. However, to prevent cat scratch fever, people should:

  • only adopt a cat that is more than 1 year old if a family member has poor immunity, as kittens are most likely to have the disease
  • avoid rough play around a cat or kitten
  • never allow a cat to lick wounds or open areas of skin
  • avoid petting stray or feral cats
  • wash hands and any other affected areas after playing with a cat

Fleas pass the infection from one cat to another.

To prevent a flea infestation:

  • vacuum the home frequently
  • use flea prevention, such as medication, to protect the cat from flea bites
  • contact a pest control company if a lot of fleas appear in a home

Checking for signs in a cat

The CDC estimate that around 40 percent of cats carry the B. henselae bacteria at some point in their lives. Most of the time, they do not show signs of illness.

Symptoms

Cats get the infection when they scratch and bite at fleas that infect them or fight with cats that are carriers.

If a cat has fleas or visible scratches, a person may wish to practice caution when handling their cat. Once a cat has the cat scratch fever infection, it can carry the bacteria for several months. During this time, it can pass on the infection.

Cats with the bacteria often have no symptoms, but they may have a fever that lasts for 48–72 hours.

In rare cases, cat scratch disease can cause severe symptoms in cats.

These include:

  • fever
  • vomiting
  • low appetite
  • lethargy
  • swollen lymph nodes
  • red eyes
  • inflammation in the mouth

The infection can remain for several months in the cat, and symptoms may reappear at times of stress, for example, after trauma or surgery or alongside another illness.

Diagnosis and treatment

A vet can inspect a cat for fleas and make recommendations about flea prevention and avoiding scratches and bites.

A test is available for the bacteria, but doctors do not usually recommend it for cats that have no symptoms. The bacteria are widespread, and the test can be unreliable.

Cats do not usually need antibiotics unless they have noticeable symptoms.

Prevention in catswoman with a cat

Taking steps to reduce fleas in a cat can reduce the likelihood of cat scratch fever. People can care for their cats by doing the following:

  • applying or administering a vet-approved flea treatment regularly
  • keeping a cat indoors to avoid contact with stray or infected animals
  • keeping a cat’s nails trimmed and neat
  • scheduling and maintaining regular checkups with a vet

There is currently no vaccine against cat scratch fever bacteria.

Products to protect a cat from fleas are available for purchase online.

Other conditions cats can spread

Apart from cat scratch fever, a cat can carry other diseases.

These include:

Campylobacteriosis: Bacteria cause an intestinal infection.

Cryptosporidiosis: A parasite causes diarrhea and abdominal cramping.

Plague: Although rare in America, this can occur if a person takes their cat to another country.

Rabies: Cats should have regular vaccinations to prevent rabies infection.

Ringworm: Kittens are especially likely to carry this fungal infection. It causes bald patches on the skin.

Tapeworm: Most common in children, this infection occurs when a person ingests a flea from a cat that has tapeworm larvae.

Toxocara infection: This condition does not always cause symptoms, but it can give rise to severe complications, such as blindness.

Toxoplasmosis: It is crucial to avoid this during pregnancy. Complications include growth and eye problems in the unborn child and pregnancy loss.

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Photography competition launched to document the six life stages of cats

iCatCare

The competition is open to amateur and professional photographers

Winning images will be used to help raise funds for iCatCare.

International Cat Care (iCatCare) has launched its annual photography competition to document the six life stages of cats.

From kitten through to super senior, judges are on the lookout for images that document behaviour not necessarily associated with a particular life stage – such as a super senior playing with toys. However, photographs are by no means limited to this

The competition is open to amateur and professional photographers, and the 12 winning images will be used on charity merchandise to raise funds for ICatCare. The overall winner will also receive a cash prize of £500.

More information about the competition, including deadlines and submission details, can be found at woobox.com/thoqqz

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A woman and pussy

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Woman and pussy

A woman and pussy

Woman and pussy: the unique tandem of cats and women has always attracted attention and generated many different theories about their relationship with each other. Although cats have always been distinguished by their independence and dissimilarity to other living beings, their similarities with women and their special relationship with them require a special discussion.

Pure Beauty

The main common feature that a woman and a cat have is the desire of both beauty and conquest of the world. Such a tradition originated in the depths of centuries, and even in ancient times cats were always depicted next to the most beautiful women, and any beauty was automatically compared in her grace and grace to representatives of the cat family. And, of course, cats and women always got along very well. For example, in Turkey, statuettes were found dating back to the 6th millennium BC, which depicts women playing with cats. And even then, each mistress of the house reserved for her pet the most privileged place in the house.

This is not surprising, because a woman and a cat have one more thing in common – independence, bordering on affection. It was the gentleness of a woman who always attracted a cat to her side, and thanks to this, the feline race was closely intertwined with the human one, and the cat began not only to decorate the house with itself but also to protect it from various dangers. Soon, in almost every country, special rules and laws appeared that require respectful and reverent treatment of cats:

  • in Britain there was a code of laws determining the value of a cat and prescribing punishment for cruelty to it;
  • in America, a cat immediately became an object of exchange trade, as well as the patroness of many houses, which she saved from epidemics and other disasters;
  • in Paraguay, at the legislative level, it has been established that every cat is worth a pound of gold;
  • in Ancient Russia in the 14th-century laws existed that penalized cat larceny and imposed huge fines on thieves.

And in each of the situations, the behavior of cats was not important: animals were considered sacred even when they showed their difficult character, and it was women who played a significant role in recognizing their sacred value.

Unattainable ideal

Woman with 2 cats

In addition, from time immemorial, women and cats have in common many common features – both appearance and character:

  • resourcefulness and intelligence inherent in both
  • quick reaction and agility,
  • excellent plastic
  • undeniable external beauty
  • some detachment.

Thanks to this, women gave their hearts to cats many centuries ago. And today this tradition continues, because it is in the graceful representatives of feline women that they see a real ideal, which is often unattainable for themselves.

A cat for women is a living embodiment of beauty, and the independent behavior of cats is an example to follow. This is not surprising, because:

  • cats do not have problems with being overweight,
  • cats do not need fur coats – their silky and delicate fur is admired by every one;
  • cats do not need to fawn in front of people to be stroked – it only allows you to do this if she liked the person;
  • the cat is always beautiful, no matter what she does;
  • the cat does not need to take care of its kittens all its life and even think about who it is pregnant from;
  • the cat is patient and ready to faithfully listen to all the sorrows of its owners, without giving them any stupid advice,
  • the behavior of cats can be anything, but no one can be angry for a graceful and touching animal for a long time.
  • And, of course, there are some comic “differences” between women and cats, which men often like to talk about:
  • the cat is fluffy throughout the body, and not just on the head,
  • for beauty, the cat doesn’t need makeup,
  • the cat remains graceful in any situation,
  • the cat eats less
  • the cat can purr beautifully,
  • the cat is easy to keep on your lap
  • if her owner gets sick, the cat will just sleep next to him, without disturbing him,
  • the cat will never whimper and complain
  • the cat is always clean and takes care of itself,
  • the cat will not be offended by you if you are tired and you are not up to it,
  • a good word will always please a cat,
  • the cat doesn’t need new outfits,

Getting a cat in the house is always very easy!

However, even in spite of these small “differences”, it is the woman and the cat who always get along best with each other. And even if the owner of the animal is just the man, his pet can easily neglect it, and all attention will be paid to his chosen one!

Of course, if you want your cat to feel healthy every time you should give him anthelmintic drugs and you can find a lot of different cat supplies HERE.

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Choosing a Kitten

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Choosing a Kitten

You have decided you want to share your life with a kitten and be responsible for it all through cat-hood. Your commitment could last for the next 14 to 15 years or even longer. This is a serious undertaking and you want to get it as right as you can.
There are lots of places to go and get a kitten but once you have made this decision, you have to choose one individual.

More often than not it is looks that we go for – a particular favourite colour or marking. However, there is much more to it than that – what do you ask and what do you look for? You want to know about the kitten’s personality, the kitten’s needs and the kitten’s health.

What shapes a kitten’s personality?

Think of the different cats you have met in your life. Some have been extra friendly, some nervous or fearful, some bold, some even perhaps aggressive. The cats we come across in our lives can vary from pet cats to community cats to wild living or feral cats. How they have come to be those cats depends on their parents, where they were born, how much handling they have had, and what experiences they had both at an early age and later in life. All of these things can have a profound effect.

A pet cat could be defined as one that’s happy to be around people and to interact with them – just what most of us want. However, at the other end of the spectrum is the feral cat, an amazing creature which, although it looks exactly the same as a pet cat and is of the same species, can behave very differently – in fact, more like a cat belonging to a wild species (more of this later).

Cats have a wide range of personalities. How confident or fearful a cat is in adulthood will be affected by what happens in kittenhood. Much of this ‘personality’ development has already taken place before we get our kitten. For the cat, learning to enjoy the company of people takes place pretty early in its life – somewhere from about three weeks to seven or eight weeks old. During this time the kitten hasn’t yet learned to fear everything, and its mind is open to forming bonds with other animals or people and learning how to deal with new experiences without being overwhelmed by them. Think about human children when they’re toddlers, and how fearless they often are – running off without a care, touching and tasting everything, falling over and getting up again. But as they get older they begin to worry and look for reassurance when they do things.

If kittens don’t experience people or human things during the early weeks of their lives they may never be able to see them as part of ‘normal’ life. Whatever happens in the feline mind as it matures in the first couple of months, it learns to avoid and fear things that aren’t familiar to it and this then seems to be fairly fixed thereafter. So a kitten which hasn’t been handled by people, met dogs or experienced everyday things such as vacuum cleaners, doorbells, children laughing and screaming and so on, may automatically find them very threatening and react accordingly. The cat may try to avoid any interaction with things it fears, perhaps hiding away or being aggressive if it’s pursued to be stroked. This often happens with kittens born to stray or feral cats which don’t meet people at an early age. People think that they are being kind in trying to nurture or ‘tame’ such cats, but often they are causing great stress. The cat’s mind doesn’t really have the ability to respond because the pathways weren’t created when it was young enough. Cats do continue to learn beyond eight weeks of age, but if the fundamentals are missing there may be little or nothing to build upon. So a fearful kitten is likely to be a fearful cat and no amount of love from an owner may have a great effect on this.

The point of this discussion about cat personality is to try and help new owners to understand what shapes the potential personality of a cat in relation to being a pet cat and living closely with people. Most owners want a cat that enjoys being with them and their family and friends. If you choose a fearful kitten because you feel sorry for it, and think that just by being kind you’ll bring it around, you may have a long and disappointing relationship. The kitten may actually develop into a very stressed adult because you’re asking it to live in a household that holds many fearful challenges for it. On the other hand, if you live a very quiet life and want a cat that’s not too demanding and will gradually get used to you and won’t be challenged by noisy teenagers or loud music, banging doors or lots of visitors, a rather less robust character may suit perfectly. If you want a cat that lives outdoors most of the time and simply want to respect it as a cat, appreciate its mousing activities and feed and care for it at a distance it’s comfortable with, then there are some less people-orientated kittens that will grow into cats which will be very happy to live this type of life.

Armed with this understanding you can approach a rehoming/rescue organisation, or a breeder or answer an advert in a newspaper and ask questions to ascertain if the kitten has had the right early experiences to fit in with your needs and lifestyle. Choosing a kitten should involve your brain as well as your heart; selecting a kitten because you feel sorry for it or want to rescue it from a squalid environment may result in many years of heartache and inadvertently encourage bad breeding practice (by rewarding the breeder because you have bought a kitten). So, research the litter just by asking questions over the telephone before you view. If you are not satisfied with any of the answers to your questions then it may be better to look elsewhere for another kitten – it may also save a lot of time travelling.

What questions should I ask over the telephone?

1. What have the kittens experienced in their first 8 weeks of life?

As explained above, this is a sensitive time in kitten learning. The best scenario is that kittens have been kept in a home environment (or moved into the home environment well within the first 8 weeks of life) and are used to all those things associated with human living – people, noises, smells, visitors, children, dogs etc. The worst scenario is that the kittens have been isolated from all the things associated with normal living so that when they do experience it in a new home it is frightening and they never really get to grips with it. This can happen in rehoming/rescue facilities if kittens are kept in a pen and not handled or exposed to everyday living – many good rehoming/rescues organisations expose their kittens to these things and make sure they are handled by different people. This can also happen in the pedigree breeder situation where too many cats are being bred, often in outside pens, and each litter is not getting the handling and exposure it needs to make good confident pet cats. It is also a risk with kittens born to free-living or feral cats, such as on a farm, where again they gain no exposure to humans until it is too late.

2. What is the temperament of the mother cat (and the father if known?)

‘Friendliness’ can be influenced by genes and, like people, cats will have a genetic component as to how they react to the world. Some will be bold, some naturally nervous or shy. For moggies or non-pedigree cats, the combination of genes from each parent is not usually controlled by people and frequently the father of the kittens is never seen. A friendly mother will pass on friendly genes as well as being relaxed and interactive with people as an example to her kittens. For pedigree cat breeders who control the matings of their cats, there is a chance to breed from friendly cats to incorporate this into the next generation. It should always be possible to view the other kittens should you decide to visit.

3. If I decide on a pedigree breed, is there a breed disposition for a certain type of behaviour?

Cats in general have very individual personalities – some are noisy, some are active, others are very laid back. However, there are some breeds where some aspects of personality are likely to come through – Siamese cats, for example, are known for their talkative nature and some breeds are quite demanding of attention. So it is best to ascertain what you might be taking on or what you want your cat to do – there is no guarantee it will happen, but it is more likely where this behaviour is seen among this group or breed of cats.

4. Ask about your particular requirements

If you have a dog at home, it is a lot easier to integrate the kitten if it has already met a dog or dogs and is not frightened. Likewise, if you have children, ask if the kitten has met children – those that have will take the high pitched voices and somewhat erratic or sudden movements of children in their stride. If the kitten has just been around women and not met men it may be fearful of loud deep voices, so again ask the question.

The answers to these questions will give you an idea of the quality of care the kittens are receiving. The next step is to visit and view the kittens.

Looking for clues about the kitten’s health

When choosing a kitten, you should check the animal for signs of ill-health, such as runny eyes or nose, dirty ears, a dirty or sore area under the tail which may indicate the cat is suffering from diarrhoea. The kitten should look well, with bright eyes, a good coat and be able to move easily.

Ask to see the other kittens in the litter and the mother to make sure that they are healthy too.

Follow your instincts and don’t be taken in by stories of how that runny eye had just happened etc. Many people come away with a kitten which is not 100% because they are told it will all be fine by the breeder or rescue.

If you have arrived to find that the rescue/breeder/pet shop or whatever facility is homing the kittens is dirty, smelly and has lots of other cats and kittens then be very wary. Good hygiene is essential to keeping kittens healthy and they can be very vulnerable.

What questions should I ask to ascertain a kitten’s needs?

1. May I handle the kittens?

Ask to handle the kitten to assess how relaxed it is with people. Is it well socialised and friendly or is it scared? Spend a bit of time with it in case it is just initially a little wary of new people but soon adapts, or whether it just tries to hide away. Ask to see the whole litter to see how they react to you, each other and the environment. Ideally, you should be looking for a kitten that responds in equal measures to all of these!

2. What sex is the kitten and how old is it?

Ask about the cat’s sex and how old it is. Pedigree kittens are usually over 12 weeks old when they are rehomed but non-pedigree or moggies may be around 8 weeks old.

3. What type of coat will the kitten have?

It can be hard to tell if a moggie kitten is going to be long haired unless its mother has a long coat (often the father is never seen). However, if you are taking on a pedigree cat then you will know how it is going to turn out. A Persian will need daily grooming and other breeds with slightly less undercoat will need regular grooming as well. However, lack of a coat does not mean the kitten will be easy to care for – some of the Rex breeds (with a sparse wavy coat) and the hairless breeds such as the Sphynx need a lot of time and effort spent on keeping the skin clean. Some will leave greasy marks on furniture and will need regular bathing (click here for information on breed health).

4. What other care will the kitten need, both now and as an adult?

Some breeds, such as Persians and Exotics, have very flat faces. In making the face this flat the natural drainage of tears from the eye may be blocked and the tears overflow over the face. This must be very uncomfortable for the cats and can cause staining or skin problems. Owners must be able to clean the eyes and face on a regular basis. Other breeds with more pointed skulls may have more inset eyes which may also need care.

Ask about vaccination – most pedigree kittens will have had their vaccinations before they can be homed, but it is worth checking. Many kittens from rescue may also have had at least one vaccination, depending on the age at which they are homed. Make sure you get the vaccination certificate if you take on the kitten.

Have the kittens has been wormed and treated for fleas? If so, what with?

Have any of the kittens got ongoing health issues requiring medication? (If this is the case and you still wish to take on the kitten, ask for advice on how to give the tablets, eye-drops or ear-drops so that you know what you have to do. )

If the kitten is a pedigree, ask about any tests for inherited diseases (click here to look at individual breeds and what they can be tested for).

5. How much attention will the kitten need, both now and as an adult?

Some breeds are more needy of attention and company than others, others will be much more independent. Again decide what suits you.

6. What food, litter etc is currently being used?

Ask what the kitten is currently eating, what type of litter it is used to etc. Check up on whether the information you have been given is correct as sometimes people have not been feeding the best diet for a growing kitten. However, if you are changing food, do it gradually so as to avoid stomach upsets.

7. Ask if the kitten is insured

In countries where it is available, such as in the UK, many breeders, rescue organisations and even individuals who have bred an ‘accidental’ litter will provide new owners with insurance cover for the kitten which lasts for the first 6 weeks in its new home. This covers health issues and other benefits. The insurance company will then contact the new owner to see if they wish to continue with the insurance. Insurance to cover vet fees (and other things) is a great idea and gives peace of mind about payment should problems occur – the first year of a kitten’s life can be its most hazardous because kittens and young cats can get themselves into all sorts of trouble – the saying ‘curiosity killed the cat’ is based on some truth. Kittens must learn fast as they grow and this means being inquisitive; it can however get them into trouble. To decide whether you want to keep the insurance cover check what it actually does.

Be prepared to walk away

Potential owners must be prepared to walk away and not purchase a kitten out of pity because it’s ill or scared, just in order to ‘save’ it from its current environment. Although this sounds very hard, you don’t want to be left with a kitten that may have health or attitude problems for years to come and is likely to be difficult and disappointing to live with.

Do your homework

Do your homework first, and then go and visit. Most breeders will ask you to come along for a first viewing when the kittens are still a bit too young to rehome (the breeding organisations require them to keep kittens until they’re about 12 weeks old and have had at least their first vaccinations in order to protect them). Don’t go from one breeder to another and handle the kittens – you could carry viruses on your hands and clothes which could be passed on to vulnerable kittens, so breeders may be quite strict about asking you not to do this in order to protect the health of their cats. A good breeder or rescue centre will want to find out if you’ll care for the kitten properly and will give you lots of advice. They should be able to provide help or advice if you need it and will want to hear from you if you have any problems. They should also be willing to take the kitten back should serious problems arise but this does not always happen and often new owners have fallen in love with the new kitten and can’t bear to give it back. Knowledge and information is the key, and ignorance is no excuse for either producing or buying a kitten that’s ill or poorly socialised.

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If You Think Of Getting a Cat?

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If You Think Of Getting a Cat

Having a cat can mean different things to different people. Some want a cat to cuddle and sit on their laps; others are happy to live with a very independent cat which spends most of its time outside and doesn’t want too much human interaction.

What is important is that you try to find a cat that will interact with you if you want it to. All cats are not the same and how each individual cat behaves with you can depend on its inherent personality and early experiences (or lack of experiences), which can make it fearful or confident with people and life in general.

The environment in which you keep a cat is also extremely significant – for example if it lives with many other cats which do not get on, then it will be stressed and will react differently than if it was on its own.

While there is no guaranteed way to choose the perfect cat for you and your lifestyle, understanding your expectations as well as what makes cats tick will help you to bring home a cat that should be able to cope with its new environment and be the pet that you want too.

To care for a cat you will need to:

  • Provide plenty of human companionship
  • Provide regular, suitable meals with a constant supply of fresh water
  • Provide a clean and comfortable bed
  • Provide the cat with outdoor access or be prepared to empty and clean a litter tray on a daily basis
  • Provide it with a stimulating and safe environment
  • Groom it regularly. Longhaired cats require daily grooming
  • Have it neutered between 4 and 6 months old
  • Vaccinate against the major feline diseases regularly
  • Worm regularly and provide treatment for fleas
  • Take the cat to the vet when it shows any sign of illness
  • Insure your cat or make sure you can afford the cost of any veterinary treatment it may need

How much care and attention does a cat need?

As pets go, cats are relatively low maintenance compared to dogs which need companionship, walking, training etc. However, like any pet, they do need care, and some cats need more care than others. Do you want to spend a lot of time with your cat, do you want it to be demanding, or do you have limited time? Cats can fit into busy, modern lifestyles more easily than dogs, as they are pretty independent, can be left alone much more easily and are more suitable for smaller flats or houses. Cats are often chosen by people who have busy and stressful lifestyles and who want some companionship when they go home to relax.

What do you want from your relationship with a cat? If you’re the kind of person who really needs to have a close relationship with your cat and to be able to handle it and have it interact with you, then you’ll be disappointed if you take on a nervous cat that hides every time you come into the room. You may want to think about one of the pedigree breeds which can be more interactive and perhaps more needy of human company than some moggies. This may however become a problem for the cat if you are out at work all day and only available to give attention on evenings or weekends.

Some cats need to know exactly what’s going to happen when, in order to feel relaxed. Such cats would be quite happy living with an old lady who rarely has visitors and leads a very quiet life, but would probably find it quite stressful living in a home full of kids and other animals with lots of visitors and activity. Other cats, however, might thrive on different interactions with lots of people and fit in perfectly well in a busy household.

If you’re not likely to have the time or inclination to groom a cat on a daily basis, don’t even think of getting a Persian or a cat with a long coat. In pedigree jargon, any cat with a longer coat, aside from a Persian, is called semi-longhaired because the coat is not as full as the Persian’s and does not have such a thick undercoat; however, it is still long and requires grooming. In addition, if you are extremely house-proud, you may not want lots of hair everywhere.

A shorthaired cat is a much easier option, as most cats are fanatical about their coats and keep them in immaculate condition. That’s not to say that they don’t leave hairs around – bear this in mind if you’re thinking of getting a white cat but have dark furniture, or vice versa. Likewise, a cat is quite likely to sharpen its claws indoors, often on the stair carpet, sometimes on the furniture or even on the wallpaper. Whether your cat does this can depend on the cat itself and also the environment you provide for it; however there are things you can do to try and deal with this, but it is best to acknowledge from the outset that your cat is an animal with free will and natural behaviour that may not suit someone who needs to have an immaculate house.

Can I keep a cat on vegetarian food?

Are you a vegetarian and want your cat to be one too? If you want a vegetarian pet that won’t challenge your beliefs, then it would be better to get a rabbit – a cat is a carnivore first and foremost, and looks and behaves as it does for just this reason.  A cat is what is called an obligate carnivore – it has an absolute need for some of the nutrients found in meat and all of its senses of smell and taste are atuned to being a carnivore – it would be unfair and very dangerous to health to even attempt keeping it as a vegetarian.

Is there a type of cat which doesn’t hunt?

You may have a great aversion to your cat hunting outside. Perhaps you are a bird lover, or are simply unable to deal with small carcases on the floor. Hunting is normal behaviour for cats. Keeping a cat indoors may prevent it actually killing anything, but it will still need an outlet for this, its most instinctive behaviour, and not all cats will be happy with an indoor lifestyle. Likewise, if you’re simply getting a cat to keep vermin at bay, you won’t want to find yourself with one which isn’t especially interested in huntin’, shootin’ and fishin’ and prefers being a couch potato! Older cats are likely to hunt much less than younger ones and some cats don’t bother at all, but there is no easy way to know how a cat will behave.

Can I keep a cat indoors?

If you think about the lifestyle of a cat which has access outdoors you will realise that being outdoors brings a huge variety to its life and allows it to use all of its hunting behaviours if it wants to. Of course, there are risks outside for cats, but you need to balance these with the very positive aspects of physical and mental stimulation and an outlet for natural behaviour.

Can I have a cat with a baby or young children?

There is no reason not to have a cat or kitten if you have children.  It is up to parents to teach their children from the very beginning how to approach, stroke and handle cats and to treat them kindly.  Many children have fantastic relationships with their cats and learn about respecting other creatures and being gentle – it is done successfully all the time, but it is up to parents to lay down the rules. Perhaps taking on a new kitten when you have a new baby or a toddler might be a lot to handle at once, so ensuring you have time for all the parties is part of a successful relationship. Likewise, if you are pregnant there is no need to get rid of the cat. Simple and basic hygiene precautions and common sense management of the cat, while the baby is small, can ensure all cohabit happily and safely.

Should I get an adult cat or a kitten?

A kitten gives you the opportunity to take on an animal right from the beginning and treat it and care for it so that it gets the best start in life. You will also be able to get some idea of its character. However, kittens require a lot of attention and some forethought to prevent them from getting into trouble. If you leave them alone you have to make sure they will be safe while you are away. You may also have to organise neutering, initial vaccinations and so on, depending on where you get your kitten from.

While kittens have a huge ‘cute’ factor, it is worth remembering that they don’t stay kittens for very long – just six months out of a potential 14 years or more.

With adult cats, it is at least clear if they are long or short haired.  You should be able to get a good idea of a cat’s personality, although if it is being kept in less than ideal circumstances and is stressed or frightened it may act very differently compared to when it is relaxed. A confident adult cat is likely to move in and settle down quite quickly; a nervous one may take more time. It will be much easier to leave an older cat alone in the knowledge that it is not going to get itself into trouble, and it will generally be much less hard work and worry than a kitten. An adult cat will probably already be neutered and vaccinated.

What sex of cat should I get?

The sex of a kitten doesn’t really matter, as long as you neuter your kitten before it reaches puberty (at about four months of age) when the influence of sex hormones kick in. Un-neutered cats may exhibit unwelcome reproductive behaviours. For example, un-neutered male cats will mark their territory with strong smelling urine while un-neutered female cats can come into season every two weeks if they do not become pregnant.

If you are getting just one cat or kitten, it doesn’t matter which sex you choose. Equally, if you want two kittens and you are getting two from the same litter, the sex of either cat is probably not important. However, if you have a resident cat and are getting just one kitten or another cat, it may be worth considering going for one of the opposite sex to try and remove some of the competition factor. A kitten may be a better option than another adult cat in such cases as the young cat’s immaturity seems to remove this competition factor – for a while anyway during which time you hope they will get to like each other! Neutering also removes the need for so much competition and makes the choice of sex much less important.

Should I choose a specific breed or moggie?

The majority of cats kept as pets are what we call moggies or domestic short or long haired cats – that is they are a random mixture of lots of different cats, we have often have little idea about their parentage (well the father anyway). This means we have no control over the colour, body shape, coat length or anything else that the kittens can inherit from their parents. So, for example, if your kitten is from a moggie mum but its father is unknown, it may develop a longer coat than you desire if the father was indeed longhaired.

There is more to choosing a pedigree cat than just liking a certain coat colour or length – there are ethical considerations with some breeds if you really want to consider the cat’s welfare.  There are also health issues which you need to check with the breeder and things you need to ask. Good breeders aim to breed healthy, people-friendly cats and avoid (or seek to deal with) inherited disorders which arise.

What breed of cat should I choose?

There are many different breeds, some of which will require extra care and attention, for example if they have a very long coat or even no coat at all. Some pedigree cats are more people orientated and may not like to be left alone for long periods. If you are out all day at work it may be worth getting two kittens together for company – do your research about the breed you are interested in. Always make sure that health comes first, no matter what the ‘look’.

Can I have a cat if I have a dog?

If you have other pets there should not be a problem in getting a cat, but you just need to make sure that you take everything into consideration.  If you have a dog you just need to make sure that you make introductions carefully so that your new cat is not chased or injured while the dog gets used to it. Not all dog types make good companions for cats.

How many cats can I have together?

It’s very easy to ‘collect’ cats – they’re addictively beautiful, they’re small and they’re quite easy to care for. Even if they don’t get on, they tend to remove themselves from the situation rather than fight. However, there may be a great deal of tension between cats which owners just don’t pick up on. Cats originate from a largely solitary species and although they can live in groups these are usually related individuals or are self-selected so that cats are not sharing space with cats that they don’t get on with. Cats may start to spray or soil in the house because they’re trying to deal with a situation where they feel under stress because of other cats, and this might be all that owners notice.

If you have two cats living together very successfully then think very carefully before you add more. If you have three cats living well together then thank your stars and quit while you’re ahead! The trouble with adding more is that it might not be just the relationship between the resident cats and the new one that causes problems; it may upset the whole equilibrium of the resident cats’ relationship and introduce difficulties even between the original cats as tension and stress levels rise. Any new cat needs careful introduction.

The best way to have two compatible cats is to choose siblings. These will have grown up together, and this usually bodes well for a good future relationship (although never guaranteed!).

What does it cost to keep a cat?

If you are buying a pedigree cat then there will be associated costs and these may be quite large. Pedigree kittens usually come vaccinated and in some cases already neutered. If you are getting a cat from a rescue organisation then they may ask for a donation or a fee and again it will probably come already neutered and vaccinated. Kittens or cats from friends or neighbours don’t usually come neutered or vaccinated, wormed, treated for fleas or anything else and it will be up to you to register with a vet and get these things done. Neutering is obviously a one-off cost, but several vaccinations will be required to make sure that a kitten is protected from infectious diseases; thereafter a regular booster vaccination will help to protect it during its life (requirements depend on the cat’s lifestyle and risks associated with that – your vet can advise you).  Then there is food, preventive health care regarding treatment for fleas and ticks and worms, cat litter if you want or need an indoor litter tray, beds and grooming equipment if you take on a longhaired cat. Microchipping is also recommended in case your cat goes missing. We recommend that you also insure your cat so that if an accident or illness happens then you do not have to worry about the costs. Choose your insurance carefully to make sure you get what you expect or need.

I am allergic to cats – is there any breed which is better than others?

Many people think it’s a cat’s hair that causes us to react to them by sneezing, wheezing or itching. In fact it’s a protein or allergen called Fd1, present in feline saliva, which causes the allergy. Because cats groom themselves regularly they have saliva all over their coat.  This dries on the coat and when the cat scratches, moves or brushes past objects the dust or dander and the hairs which contain the allergen are spread about. Cat-lovers who really want to have a cat but are allergic sometimes think that by choosing a breed with less, little or no coat they can avoid the problem. However, as it is saliva that causes the problem, this is unlikely to help, and although longhaired cats do seem to cause more allergic reactions that’s probably only because, having more hair, they’re also covered with more allergen.

It’s worth trying out different cats by visiting friends with cats to see if they elicit less of an allergic reaction. Unfortunately it’s a very difficult problem to get around for people who react or who have family members who are allergic.

What should I do with my cat when I go on holiday?

If you go away on holiday you also need to consider who is going to look after your cat.  If you are only away for a day or two you can ask a neighbour to pop in and feed it and check it is OK. If you are away for more than this you may want to consider a boarding cattery, as many cats may wander looking for company.  If you have a nervous cat it may hide when the feeder comes and he or she may not be able to be sure that everything is all right. A good boarding cattery will keep your cat safe and you can relax while you are away. There are bad boarding catteries however.

When should I get a new cat?

If you are considering getting a new cat or kitten, choose a time when it is quiet in your house (not in the middle of a family celebration etc) and perhaps when you have a day or two when you can help it to settle in and be there while it finds its way around, not just before you go on holiday etc.

Where do I get a cat from and how do I choose it?

Once you have thought about the responsibilities and costs of keeping a cat and what type you want, then consider where you are going to get it and how you are going to choose your cat or kitten.

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What is Panacur?

Every once in awhile, your veterinarian gives you unpleasant news. Sometimes, that news sounds like this:

“Your dog has worms.”

Nobody wants to hear that her dog has internal parasites, but worms in dogs are more common than you might think. They are also usually treatable. One of the medications veterinarians frequently prescribe for dogs with worms is Panacur, a deworming medication used to treat several species of canine parasites.

What Is Panacur?

Panacur is the brand name of an oral deworming medication with the active ingredient fenbendazole. It is used to treat internal parasites in domestic animals, including dogs, cats, horses, and livestock. In dogs, Panacur is most often used to treat hookworm, roundworm, tapeworm (Taenia), and whipworm infections, although it is important to note that Panacur is not effective against Dipylidium tapeworms.

In addition to these worms, Panacur (fenbendazole) is approved in Europe to treat Giardia in dogs and is sometimes used off-label in the U.S. to deal with Giardia infections. It is also occasionally used off-label to combat lungworm infections.

How Does Panacur Work?

Deworming medications work in different ways to eliminate parasites. Some target specific life stages, while others attack the biological processes of the parasite. Fenbendazole kills parasites by binding to tubulin (a type of protein), which interferes with the parasites’ ability to form microtubules, which combine to form the structure of the worm cells.

So how do you introduce this parasite eliminator into your dog’s system? Panacur is given orally, either in granules, a suspension, or a paste. Talk to your veterinarian about the best formulation for your dog and for tips about how to properly administer a dewormer.

Side Effects of Panacur for Dogs

Panacur is generally considered a very safe medication and is one of the safest dewormers on the market. Its active ingredient has a selective affinity for parasitic tissue, which means it usually ignores your dog’s body tissues unless given in very high doses, and even then dogs can tolerate doses up to 100 times higher than recommended. Manufacturers list vomiting as a possible side effect, and some formulations, like Panacur Plus, contain other medications, such as ivermectin and praziquantel, which can have more serious side effects.

Even though the drug is generally safe, you still need to exercise caution. Some dogs may have an allergic reaction to the dying parasites themselves. Watch out for symptoms of an allergic reaction in dogs, which include facial swelling, itchiness, hives, diarrhea, vomiting, seizures, shock, pale gums, cold limbs, and coma. You should also talk to your vet about giving Panacur to pregnant dogs. Your veterinarian may have to adjust the dosage, and Panacur is not recommended for puppies under six weeks old.

How Much Panacur Should I Give My Dog?

When it comes to the dosage and duration of Panacur or any other medication, talk to your veterinarian. While the Internet is a great source of initial information about drug dosages, your veterinarian may have his or her own reasons for adjusting your dog’s dose and duration. These changes are based on your dog’s medical history or condition, and an inaccurate dosage and duration estimate could harm your dog and lead to parasite resistance.

The dosage and duration of the drug also depends on the intended use. Your veterinarian might prescribe a different dosage for Giardia than he would for roundworms, for instance, so make sure you follow his instructions to ensure that your dog receives the full benefit of the medication.

For more information about Panacur for dogs, you can always consult your veterinarian.

You can buy Panacur C at homelab shop.

Also, you can buy Helmintazole 222 (Fenbendazole 22,2%) it is a similar product as Panacur C.

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Many Tricks to Help Your Cat and Dog to Get Along

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When people aren’t debating whether cats or dogs are more intelligent, they’re equating them as mortal foes. That’s a stereotype that both cat expert Jackson Galaxy, host of the Animal Planet show My Cat From Hell, and certified dog trainer Zoe Sandor want to break.

Typically, cats are aloof and easily startled, while dogs are gregarious and territorial. This doesn’t mean, however, that they can’t share the same space—they’re just going to need your help. “If cats and dogs are brought up together in a positive, loving, encouraging environment, they’re going to be friends,” Galaxy tells Mental Floss. “Or at the very least, they’ll tolerate each other.”

The duo has teamed up to host a new Animal Planet series, Cat vs. Dog, which airs on Saturdays at 10 p.m. The show chronicles their efforts to help pet owners establish long-lasting peace—if not perfect harmony—among cats and dogs. (Yes, it’s possible.) Gleaned from both TV and off-camera experiences, here are eight tips Galaxy and Sandor say will help improve household relations between Fido and Fluffy.

TAKE PERSONALITY—NOT BREED—INTO ACCOUNT.

Contrary to popular belief, certain breeds of cats and dogs don’t typically get along better than others. According to Galaxy and Sandor, it’s more important to take their personalities and energy levels into account. If a dog is aggressive and territorial, it won’t be a good fit in a household with a skittish cat. In contrast, an aging dog would hate sharing his space with a rambunctious kitten.

If two animals don’t end up being a personality match, have a backup plan, or consider setting up a household arrangement that keeps them separated for the long term. And if you’re adopting a pet, do your homework and ask its previous owners or shelter if it’s lived with other animals before, or gets along with them.

2. TRAIN YOUR DOG.

To set your dog up for success with cats, teach it to control its impulses, Sandor says. Does it leap across the kitchen when someone drops a cookie, or go on high alert when it sees a squeaky toy? If so, it probably won’t be great with cats right off the bat, since it will likely jump up whenever it spots a feline.

Hold off Fido’s face time with Fluffy until the former is trained to stay put. And even then, keep a leash handy during the first several cat-dog meetings.

3. GIVE A CAT ITS OWN TERRITORY BEFORE IT MEETS A DOG.

Cats need a protected space—a “base camp” of sorts—that’s just theirs, Galaxy says. Make this refuge off-limits to the dog, but create safe spaces around the house, too. This way, the cat can confidently navigate shared territory without trouble from its canine sibling.

Since cats are natural climbers, Galaxy recommends taking advantage of your home’s vertical space. Buy tall cat trees, install shelves, or place a cat bed atop a bookcase. This allows your cat to observe the dog from a safe distance, or cross a room without touching the floor.

And while you’re at it, keep dogs away from the litter box. Cats should feel safe while doing their business, plus dogs sometimes (ew) like to snack on cat feces, a bad habit that can cause your pooch to contractintestinal parasites. These worms can cause a slew of health problems, including vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, and anemia.

Baby gates work in a pinch, but since some dogs are escape artists, prepare for worst-case scenarios by keeping the litter box uncovered and in an open space. That way, the cat won’t be cornered and trapped mid-squat.

4. EXERCISE YOUR DOG’S BODY AND MIND.

“People exercise their dogs probably 20 percent of what they should really be doing,” Sandor says. “It’s really important that their energy is released somewhere else so that they have the ability to slow down their brains and really control themselves when they’re around kitties.”

Dogs also need lots of stimulation. Receiving it in a controlled manner makes them less likely to satisfy it by, say, chasing a cat. For this, Sandor recommends toys, herding-type activities, lure coursing, and high-intensity trick training.

“Instead of just taking a walk, stop and do a sit five times on every block,” she says. “And do direction changes three times on every block, or speed changes two times. It’s about unleashing their herding instincts and prey drive in an appropriate way.”

If you don’t have time for any of these activities, Zoe recommends hiring a dog walker, or enrolling in doggy daycare.

5. LET CATS AND DOGS FOLLOW THEIR NOSES.

In Galaxy’s new book, Total Cat Mojo, he says it’s a smart idea to let cats and dogs sniff each other’s bedding and toys before a face-to-face introduction. This way, they can satisfy their curiosity and avoid potential turf battles.

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6. PLAN THE FIRST CAT/DOG MEETING CAREFULLY.

Just like humans, cats and dogs have just one good chance to make a great first impression. Luckily, they both love food, which might ultimately help them love each other.

Schedule the first cat-dog meeting during mealtime, but keep the dog on a leash and both animals on opposite sides of a closed door. They won’t see each other, but they will smell each other while chowing down on their respective foods. They’ll begin to associate this smell with food, thus “making it a good thing,” Galaxy says.

Do this every mealtime for several weeks, before slowly introducing visual simulation. Continue feeding the cat and dog separately, but on either side of a dog gate or screen, before finally removing it all together. By this point, “they’re eating side-by-side, pretty much ignoring each other,” Galaxy says. For safety’s sake, continue keeping the dog on a leash until you’re confident it’s safe to take it off (and even then, exercise caution).

7. KEEP THEIR FOOD AND TOYS SEPARATE.

After you’ve successfully ingratiated the cat and dog using feeding exercises, keep their food bowls separate. “A cat will walk up to the dog bowl—either while the dog’s eating, or in the vicinity—and try to eat out of it,” Galaxy says. “The dog just goes to town on them. You can’t assume that your dog isn’t food-protective or resource-protective.”

To prevent these disastrous mealtime encounters, schedule regular mealtimes for your pets (no free feeding!) and place the bowls in separate areas of the house, or the cat’s dish up on a table or another high spot.

Also, keep a close eye on the cat’s toys—competition over toys can also prompt fighting. “Dogs tend to get really into catnip,” Galaxy says. “My dog loves catnip a whole lot more than my cats do.”

8. CONSIDER RAISING A DOG AND CAT TOGETHER (IF YOU CAN).

Socializing these animals at a young age can be easier than introducing them as adults—pups are easily trainable “sponges” that soak up new information and situations, Sandor says. Plus, dogs are less confident and smaller at this stage in life, allowing the cat to “assume its rightful position at the top of the hierarchy,” she adds.

Remain watchful, though, to ensure everything goes smoothly—especially when the dog hits its rambunctious “teenage” stage before becoming a full-grown dog.

Cat vs. Dog Airs on Saturdays at 10 p.m. on Animal Planet

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Do I need to cut my cat?

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Do I need to cut my cat

Nature provided the cat with everything you need – hunting skills, excellent eyesight and hearing, retractable claws, flexibility and unique grace, functional and beautiful wool. Cats are very clean animals, but can not maintain a neat and healthy coat, especially long – haired cats, on their own.

Cleanliness

In order that the cat’s coat not deliver to it and various other disadvantages and to look good, the owner must periodically perform a series of hygiene procedures. If enough for the owners shorthairs your pet comb several times a week with a brush massage, then owners species long hair need to do this every day with various types of brushes. Bathing a pet with long hair and an inner layer developed also be organized more often than for short hair.

In addition, it is necessary to wash the hair using dry shampoo monthly or special spray, regular application of antistatic conditioners, lotions and balms health of wool. Otherwise, mats, which needs to be cut, and all kinds of skin diseases are formed.

When do I need to cut cats?

No need to cut a pet if there is an opportunity to organize good nutrition, vitamin support for animals and care all stages of their six. Cat grooming is needed in certain cases:

  • – the animal is difficult to tolerate heat due to the wool in bulk;
  • – the cat resists hygiene procedures will not be allowed to be bathed and combed;
  • – Skin diseases;
  • – the presence of mats;
  • – as one of the measures prolonged moulting caused for several reasons;
  • – pedestrian street animal wool adverse weather conditions;
  • – get the wool in the digestive tract, with consequences as vomiting and defecation problems;
  • – participation in exhibitions.

Lack of time to take care of animal hair and regular cleaning of the room, the presence of allergic reactions among family members of the owners or house guests, also among the reasons why the cat owners apply to animal groomers. The list price for haircuts dogs and cats includes decorative and haircuts from a purely hygienic orientation. There are restrictions on the choice of cat hair cuts – even for decorative purposes can not cut off the head, mustache, hair in the ears and the tip of the tail cats.

Effects of cats grooming

After shearing, the condition of the animal ‘s hair may change. The possible consequences of the procedure:

  • – change the structure of wool and skin elasticity of the animal;
  • – wool in the abdomen and back after cutting has a darker shade;
  • – deteriorating adaptation to temperature changes;
  • – Alopecia or all sorts of problems with fouling hair.

To teach cats hygiene procedures and haircut, preferably from childhood. Otherwise, any tampering with the animal ‘s fur can bring great stress for the pet. Do not cut the cat yourself, as it can harm the animal. A hairdresser with experience is able to find an approach to a scared client, so you do not need the use of muzzles, collars and other means to maintain strength for a pet.

Some cats may be cut only with the use of sedatives. Correctly designate the correct means can only be a veterinarian, start your reception should be a couple of days prior to the procedure. In some cases, a haircut can be done only with the use of immobilization of pharmacological medications or under anesthesia. Any anesthesia must be selected and controlled by a veterinarian. Anesthesia has many contraindications and can adversely affect the health of the pet.